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the arcades of the Colosseum lit at dusk, with the Palatine Hill and cypresses in the background
Destination · Italy

Rome

Rome is not visited in chronological order: you walk through it. In one morning you go from the travertine of the Colosseum to the dome of the Pantheon, and by the afternoon you are standing in front of a Caravaggio in a church with no ticket desk. Here you will find guides to the stops worth the queue, the works worth looking for and the itineraries I built on foot.

3 articles

Start here

If this is your first time in Rome, start with these three. The Colosseum is timed entry and the same ticket covers the Roman Forum and the Palatine; at the Vatican Museums the only way past the queue is to book. The Pantheon is the quickest of the three and sits halfway between the other two, so it works well as a break.

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6 articles

Ancient Rome

The Colosseum ticket also covers the Roman Forum and the Palatine, so it pays to see them one after the other rather than spread them across three days. Ostia Antica is the alternative to Pompeii that sits half an hour from Rome: a whole city, with its streets and its houses. And what was dug out of these places ended up in the Museo Nazionale Romano, which is where you understand what you have just seen.

6 articles

Museums and galleries

The Galleria Borghese admits visitors in timed slots and booking is compulsory for every ticket, free ones included: book that one before the others. The Doria Pamphilj is not a museum, it is the home of a family that still lives there, with the paintings hung where the men who bought them put them. The Capitoline and Palazzo Barberini are the two you can take slowly.

2 articles

The works not to miss

These two works are in the same place, the Vatican Museums, and you see them on the same visit. I have pulled them out of the rest because they are the case where knowing what to look for genuinely changes what you see: the Sistine Chapel and the School of Athens are read, not looked at.

2 articles

Churches

Churches are the free part of Rome, and they are no consolation prize: Santa Maria del Popolo holds Caravaggio, Raphael, Bernini and Carracci in the same building, with no ticket desk. St Peter’s is the exception, because the basilica is open to walk into but climbing the dome is separate.

3 articles

Fountains

Three fountains and three periods. The Trevi is the one everyone knows and the only one that needs a strategy about timing. Bernini’s Triton sits in a square you cross without noticing it. The Naiads are in front of Termini station, so they are probably the first thing you see when you arrive.

3 articles

Unexpected Rome

Three places the tours never reach. Through the keyhole of the Priory of Malta, on the Aventine, you see the dome of St Peter’s framed by an avenue of hedges. Coppedè is more a corner than a district and you can walk it in half an hour. Villa Torlonia earns the detour for its little houses.

2 articles

Itineraries

Two ways of putting everything else in order. If you have three days, the itinerary is already built and it accounts for the distances, which in Rome are the variable that ruins plans. If you only need to decide which museums, the other guide compares them and tells you which day each one closes.

2 articles

All the Rome guides

This is where everything that does not belong to a single block ends up: the short history of the city, if you want the context before you go, and the places that fit more than one category.

Exhibitions on now in Rome

All the guides to Rome
  • closes in 27 days Vasari e Roma Musei Capitolini, Palazzo Caffarelli
  • closes in 27 days Flowers. Meravigliosa Natura Chiostro del Bramante
  • until 13 September 2026 Ettore Scola. Non ci siamo mai lasciati Museo di Roma, Palazzo Braschi
  • until 27 September 2026 Andrea Pazienza. Non sempre si muore MAXXI, Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo
  • until 4 October 2026 Robert Mapplethorpe. Le forme della bellezza Museo dell’Ara Pacis
  • until 11 October 2026 Vermeer at Palazzo Barberini. Woman in Blue Reading a Letter Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica, Palazzo Barberini
  • until 18 October 2026 Troia e Roma. Miti, leggende, storie del Mediterraneo antico Parco archeologico del Colosseo
  • until 18 October 2026 Ercolano. L’arte di vivere Museo nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo
  • until 25 October 2026 After. Un percorso di lavoro. Fendi / Karl Lagerfeld 1985 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
  • until 15 November 2026 AEGYPTUS. Dal Nilo al Mediterraneo Museo dell’Arte Salvata, Aula Ottagona delle Terme di Diocleziano
  • until 15 November 2026 Miriam Cahn. Ciò che mi guarda MACRO, Museo di Arte Contemporanea di Roma
  • until 13 December 2026 Diego Rivera e la costruzione dell’arte moderna in Messico nel XX secolo Musei Capitolini, Villa Caffarelli