The Triton Fountain in Rome is one of the fountains created by Bernini for the Italian capital and, despite its beauty and the ingenuity behind it, it’s truly one of his most underrated works.
You’ve probably noticed it too: in Rome, wherever you turn, you get the chance to stumble upon one of Bernini’s many masterpieces. He built some of the most beautiful churches in the Eternal City and gave us unprecedented sculptures, today kept at the Galleria Borghese.
But have you ever thought about how many Bernini fountains there are in Rome?
If you’ve been to Piazza Navona you’ll surely have noticed the beautiful Fountain of the Four Rivers, or the “Barcaccia” fountain in front of the Spanish Steps.
Well, among these world-famous works by Bernini, the Triton Fountain in Rome is one of the most underrated and least visited, together with the small Fountain of the Bees, also in Piazza Barberini.
Why?
Perhaps because it’s not in an easy part of the historic centre, or because, in the age of Instagram, it’s not easy to capture in a striking photo. But if you’re looking for what to see in Rome, this fountain is a sight you absolutely mustn’t miss.
In the apparent simplicity of the Triton Fountain still hides the genius of Bernini, who gave us yet another absolutely unique work of art.
Want to know a little more?
Let’s go!
1 – The Triton Fountain: how it’s made
The story of the Triton Fountain is closely tied to the Barberini family.
It was created between 1642 and 1643 by Bernini for Pope Urban VIII Barberini, to embellish the square in front of the family residence. The 3 bees you see on the base of the Triton Fountain are precisely the Barberini coat of arms and their symbol of industriousness. It’s considered Bernini’s first free-standing “sculptural” urban fountain: until then Rome’s public fountains had been simple basins, whereas here the artist brought into the square the kind of sculpture-fountain previously seen only in the gardens of villas.
What makes it special?
The Triton Fountain is built entirely of travertine and clearly evokes a marine theme. Bernini’s idea was to bring “nature” into what was instead a mainly urban setting.
Here’s how he did it!
The triton, a mythological figure linked to water, seems to emerge from a shell that has just opened, which is in turn held up by 4 dolphins.
The water gushes from the shell that the triton himself is blowing, as if it were a horn, then channels into the shell’s fissures and gathers in the basin at ground level.
Is that all?
If it seems to you there’s nothing special about it, let me explain a few fundamental features.
Although the elements making up the Triton Fountain are few, there’s a certain dynamism both in the kneeling pose of the triton and in the dolphins’ tails, where the keys and the papal coat of arms find their place, with the heraldic Barberini bees.
And it’s precisely among the dolphins’ tails that you can see one of the most incredible features of this fountain. The tails intertwine to form a sort of raised pedestal which, at its centre, is essentially hollow.
Yes indeed, Bernini loved to amaze with this kind of challenge, and for this reason he studied the thrusts and weights of the structure quite meticulously, so that it would astonish passers-by and, at the same time, not collapse in on itself.
If you look closely, the same static challenge returns in the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona.
But the curiosities don’t end here — let me tell you a little anecdote.
2 – The restorations of the Triton Fountain
Not only do tourists know little about this masterpiece by Bernini: the Triton Fountain was often neglected even by Romans and the city administration. At times the triton was so encrusted with algae and moss as to be almost unrecognisable.
When, in the last century, the fountain was finally cleaned and returned to its original state, the story goes that something very curious happened.
The restoration had removed a thick layer of encrustation, making the statue so different from how Romans were used to seeing it that some became convinced it had been replaced with a copy, and demanded that the “real” fountain be restored!
3 – The Triton Fountain and the popes’ propaganda
The Triton Fountain wasn’t built in Piazza Barberini by chance, but was part of a very precise propaganda plan enacted by the pope.
The “official” reason concerned embellishing the square in front of the Barberini residence, but the other reason was tied to promoting the work of the pope, and therefore of the Church. The water that feeds the Triton Fountain, in fact, comes from the Acqua Felice aqueduct, which passed right through that area.
To glorify their deeds, the popes of the day aimed to finance great public works, giving the people majestic fountains and monuments.
Does it seem strange to you?
Then consider that the very same thing happened with the restoration of other aqueducts, the most famous of which is the “Acqua Vergine”. If that name means nothing to you, it’s perhaps because its importance has been completely overshadowed by one of Rome’s most famous and photographed fountains… the Trevi Fountain.
Did you know?
4 – Where the Triton Fountain is
I bet you now want to know where the Triton Fountain is.
Getting there is very easy: just take metro line A and get off right at Piazza Barberini. The Triton Fountain will be just steps from the metro exit. The space in front of the fountain is very wide, so you’ll also have the chance to take some beautiful photos.
After the Triton Fountain, I also recommend a stroll along the nearby Via Veneto. At the start of the street stands another little masterpiece by Bernini, the Fountain of the Bees, and not far off you can take a small “macabre” tour inside the Capuchin Crypt.
If instead you fancy discovering other works of extraordinary beauty, just 200 metres from the Triton Fountain stands Palazzo Barberini. This building, once the property of the Barberini family, today houses the National Gallery of Ancient Art, one of the most beautiful museums in Rome.
Inside you’ll find Borromini’s spectacular helical staircase (answered by Bernini’s square one) and masterpieces such as Caravaggio’s Judith Beheading Holofernes and Narcissus, Raphael’s La Fornarina and canvases by Lorenzo Lotto, Titian and Holbein. The fountain is free, but for the museum it’s best to get the Palazzo Barberini ticket in advance, especially when there’s an exhibition on.
5 – The Triton Fountain and Roman folklore
The Triton Fountain is so much a part of Roman life that Piazza Barberini is often called “Piazza del Tritone”.
Roman culture is full of folk songs and rhymes, and I couldn’t help mentioning the one my grandfather used to sing me in a “censored” version for children, swapping the swear words and rude bits for innocent ones.
And you, did you know the Triton Fountain? Next time you’re in Rome, stop for a moment in Piazza Barberini: it’s one of those masterpieces that almost everyone walks past without looking.
