Are you thinking of travelling in Puglia and would you like to discover what to see in Trani?
Don’t worry: in this post you’ll find plenty of tips on what to do and see in Trani, and you’ll discover one of the most beautiful cities in southern Italy. To visit Trani you’ll need at least a day: I’ve been three times and I always discovered something new.
But what are the things you absolutely can’t miss in Trani?
I think there are at least 3 things to see in Trani: the cathedral, the church of Ognissanti and the castle. These three buildings are the most important testimony of its medieval past and will help you immerse yourself in the atmosphere of an ancient port city.
Whatever your reason for deciding to visit Trani, I’m sure it will be a wonderful experience, just as it was for me.
Off we go!
Why visit Trani? A little history
First of all you should know that the city of Trani has very ancient origins, whose roots reach back to prehistory. It became an important Roman centre until the fall of the Western Empire, remained under Byzantine rule during the Middle Ages and later became an episcopal see.
The cathedral of Trani, begun in 1099 in the typical Apulian Romanesque style, shows that the city was an important and much-visited port. Under Frederick II of Swabia, Trani became a centre of trade and culture, and the Swabian castle, built in 1233, remains one of its finest testimonies (I’ll tell you about it in the third chapter).
But not all beautiful things last forever!
The decline of Trani began because of one of the most important events in history: the discovery of America. With the shift of trade routes from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, many Italian cities went into slow but inexorable decline, and Trani gradually lost importance under Angevin and then Aragonese rule.
So isn’t the city worth visiting?
Quite the opposite! Beyond its many cultural attractions, today it’s worth visiting Trani for the landscape alone: the white stone on which the sun’s rays reflect, the deep blue of the sea as a backdrop, the majestic forms of its monuments… it’ll be love at first sight. A little jewel box.
1 – The Cathedral of Trani
Among the things to see in Trani, the first I’d recommend is certainly the beautiful cathedral. The building stands right on the seafront and it’s practically impossible not to notice it.
The cathedral of Trani is in Romanesque style and is dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim (San Nicola Pellegrino), a young Greek pilgrim who died here in 1094. It’s laid out on two levels: the upper church and the lower one.
In the lower cathedral you can admire fragments of ancient medieval frescoes which, together with the majesty of the architecture, give you a deep sense of calm. The relics of the saint are also kept here.
Here’s a curiosity!
The cathedral was built over the remains of older buildings: in the lower part you can see the remains of the earlier church dedicated to the Madonna (Santa Maria della Scala) and the 7th-century hypogeum of San Leucio.
And the upper part?
To enter the upper cathedral you’ll pass through a beautiful bronze door, a masterpiece by Barisano da Trani (the same who made the door of Ravello cathedral), which blends Romanesque elements with Byzantine and Saracen features. It dates to 1180 and is divided into 32 panels with biblical scenes; in one of them even Barisano himself is portrayed at the feet of Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim. The restored original is now kept inside, while outside there’s a copy.
Compared to the lower part, the upper church has slimmer forms: the arches of the matroneum alternate with columns grouped in twos, creating a harmonious rhythm, while at the far end the apse is framed by an immense arch.
Don’t forget the imposing bell tower, a full 60 metres high: it was begun in the 13th century and completed about a century later, and if you look closely you’ll notice different architectural styles on the various levels.
2 – Trani and the church of Ognissanti
Another marvel among the things to see in Trani is the church of Ognissanti (All Saints), built in the 12th century. This church has considerable historical importance because it stood on one of the routes that soldiers and knights from all over Europe followed to embark for the Holy Land.
What was it for?
It was probably used to bless the soldiers before the Crusades, and was therefore a very important gathering point. In the past it stood inside a hospital, and some claim it belonged to the order of the Templars, so much so that it’s also called the “church of the Templars”.
But is it really so?
Although the order’s presence in the city is documented, there are no records proving they ran the church. What’s certain is that it’s worth visiting: between the decorated capitals and the apse overlooking the sea, you’ll feel like you’re entering another dimension, quiet and secluded.
3 – The Castle of Trani
The Castle of Trani, together with Castel del Monte, is one of the many strongholds built by Frederick II of Swabia to control the territory. It’s one of the best-preserved fortified structures in the area and was part of a network of buildings that protected the Kingdom of Sicily.
If you’ve already visited the cathedral you’ll have noticed that the castle is right nearby, on a rocky area lower than the rest of the city.
What does that mean?
Thanks to the low rocky seabed, the Castle of Trani was hard to attack from the sea, because ships would run aground; the shape of the coast also protected it from heavy storms. Its plan is quite simple and takes as its model the castles the Crusaders built in the Holy Land: the main defences were the wide moat, filled directly by the sea, the arrow slits and the battlements.
Here’s a curiosity!
The Castle of Trani was used as a defensive point in later centuries too, in particular under Charles V of Habsburg: in that period it was fortified to withstand the new firearms as well.
You didn’t expect that, did you?
Where to eat in Trani
After all this wandering among the things to see in Trani, are you starting to feel a little hungry?
Luckily we’re in a seaside town, where you can taste plenty of local delights: the local cuisine offers fish specialities and regional dishes like orecchiette. My advice is to move away from the most touristy areas and look for a small typical tavern in the centre. And if you want a quick lunch, stop at a bakery and grab a piece of Apulian focaccia: it’s one of the best things in the world!
And if you still fancy the sea and white towns, carry on to Ostuni, the “white city” of Salento.
And you, are you drawn more to Trani’s cathedral suspended over the sea or to the charm of the Swabian castle?
