Campania is one of the most beautiful regions I’ve had the chance to visit in recent years. I fell in love with Naples, with one of its most beautiful districts and with all the treasures kept inside the Archaeological Museum. I’ve been to Pompeii, to the Royal Palace of Caserta and I spent a whole summer in Cilento. But there’s one place where I truly left my heart… the Amalfi Coast.
If you’re wondering what to see on the Amalfi Coast but haven’t yet worked out the stages of your trip, in this post I’ve selected the 5 most beautiful places to discover, in my opinion.
Despite the huge number of tourists who come to the Coast every year, this land is truly wonderful because it still keeps a wild and authentic look. The narrow lanes and the cliffs plunging into the sea will make you fall in love at once.
But what is there to see on the Amalfi Coast?
Beyond the splendid landscape, this land holds centuries of art and history. One of the finest examples is surely the beautiful town of Amalfi, which is the “historic centre” of the whole Amalfi Coast. Here too a wonderful cathedral is kept, which I’ll tell you about in just a moment.
From Amalfi you can reach some of the loveliest towns on the Coast, including Maiori, Minori, Ravello and beautiful Positano, where I recommend an unforgettable experience: a boat trip along the coast, with a visit to the Emerald Grotto, a truly enchanted place.
If you think that’s all, you’re very much mistaken.
On the Amalfi Coast there are plenty of other things to do to discover its past and its traditions, among lemons, pirates, art and sea.
Would you like to discover them with me?
Let’s go!
The cathedral of Amalfi
It’s impossible to visit the Amalfi Coast without strolling through the little lanes of Amalfi and getting to know its mythological origins.
Legend has it that Amalfi was the name of a beautiful maiden with eyes the colour of the sea. Hercules fell so deeply in love with her that, at her untimely death, he decided to bury her in a place by the sea, where he also founded a city.
Although the mythological origins of towns have always fascinated me, in reality the origin of Amalfi is to be connected with the Roman struggles against the barbarians. The town was in fact strategically important because it was hard to reach by land, and its flourishing sea trade made its fortune.
But what is there to see in Amalfi today?
After losing its status as a powerful maritime republic, from the 1700s Amalfi became one of the main attractions of the Amalfi Coast for travellers from all over Europe. Beyond the splendid seascape and the typical lanes, in Amalfi you’ll find a magnificent cathedral that will take your breath away.
Let me tell you why!
The first thing that will strike you about this imposing building is the monumental staircase that leads up to it. Unfortunately the façade is the result of a nineteenth-century reconstruction: the original one collapsed on Christmas Eve 1861 and was rebuilt by the architect Errico Alvino in a Neo-Moorish style with Gothic influences. The effect is striking all the same, a mix of Gothic, Romanesque and Byzantine art.
The interesting part is of course inside, and I promise you won’t know where to look!
Inside the cathedral of Amalfi there’s a rainbow of polychrome marbles, finely carved, which reminded me a lot of those of the nearby Certosa di Padula.
But there’s more!
On the altar you can also see a canvas depicting the patron saint Andrew, a truly beautiful work by Mattia Preti.
Don’t forget to visit the crypt, where you’ll find the statues of Saint Andrew by Michelangelo Naccherino, Saint Lawrence by Pietro Bernini (father of Gian Lorenzo) and Saint Stephen. They were a real discovery during my trip on the Amalfi Coast.
Do you know which part I loved most?
The famous Cloister of Paradise (Chiostro del Paradiso), built from 1266 and left almost intact. As at the camposanto in Pisa, it too housed numerous tombs of noblemen, hence the auspicious name of “paradise”.
Pay close attention to the details.
The beautiful pointed arches are finely interwoven in a unique style that unites the Gothic art of northern Europe with the Norman and Arab art of southern Italy. In the side chapels, instead, you’ll find ancient frescoes, and in the cathedral’s treasury rooms, precious ornaments and reliquaries.
As an art historian I really appreciated this spot on the Amalfi Coast, so dense with art and culture. And yet the true beauty of the Cathedral of Amalfi lies entirely in the deep sense of contemplation you breathe within its walls. It almost feels like being in another dimension, one the noise and clamour of the outside world cannot reach.
Villa Rufolo in Ravello
Among the things to see on the Amalfi Coast, you absolutely cannot miss a visit to the splendid setting of Villa Rufolo in Ravello!
The history of this town is closely tied to that of Amalfi. Under its leadership as a maritime town, Ravello became a thriving commercial port, falling into decline only because of the wars.
The landscape of Ravello is one of the most beautiful on the whole Amalfi Coast, but there are also many things to visit, including the Duomo, Villa Cimbrone and the astonishing Villa Rufolo.
Why is Villa Rufolo so important?
It’s an old thirteenth-century noble palace, bought and restored in the mid-nineteenth century by the Scotsman Francis Neville Reid, who redesigned the gardens in the romantic style you see today, with clear Arab influences. The most interesting parts of the building are the beautiful dining hall and the chapel, while outside there’s a mighty main tower a full 30 metres high.
But what will really leave you speechless is the magnificent garden surrounding the whole villa.
The medieval forms are still visible in the courtyard, with wonderful Arab and Byzantine influences. Above all, don’t forget to head to the Moorish cloister, from which opens one of the most beautiful views on the Amalfi Coast.
Here are a few curiosities about Villa Rufolo!
The Rufolo family, who built this palace, is mentioned by Boccaccio in the Decameron, in the tale of Landolfo Rufolo, the fourth of the second day. It’s quite possible that Boccaccio knew this family directly and even stayed at the villa.
Richard Wagner certainly stayed here in 1880: he was so struck by the garden that he recognised in it the magic garden of Klingsor from his Parsifal, and in the guest book he wrote the famous line “Klingsor’s magic garden is found!”. It’s no coincidence that even today the Ravello Festival dedicates its concerts on the terrace overhanging the sea to Wagner.
Today Villa Rufolo on the Amalfi Coast hosts many events, including weddings, the Ravello Festival and temporary exhibitions.
The entrance ticket costs 8 euros (6 reduced), but I assure you that the beauty of the gardens and the view are truly priceless.
But in Ravello there’s another very important thing to see.
Let me tell you about it now!
The Duomo of Ravello
A few metres from Villa Rufolo stands the magnificent Duomo of Ravello.
The building was founded in 1086 and inside you’ll find some treasures that bear witness to the town’s history, but also to the importance of Amalfi and of the whole Amalfi Coast.
Even before entering, you can admire a magnificent bronze door of 1179, the work of Barisano da Trani. On its surface you can make out important portraits of saints and biblical scenes, as well as the dedication of the patron, the nobleman Sergio Muscettola. Overall the portal is decorated with a full 54 panels which reminded me a great deal of the bronze portal of the cathedral of Trani in Puglia.
Inside, instead, you’ll find two beautiful medieval ambos (pulpits). The finer of the two is on the right (the Gospel ambo), decorated with twisted columns and Cosmatesque decorations: it dates to 1272, is the work of Nicola di Bartolomeo da Foggia and was commissioned by the nobleman Nicola Rufolo, portrayed together with his wife Sigilgaida. The work is so refined that it will bring to mind the masterpieces of Arnolfo di Cambio.
On the left there’s a second ambo, less showy, dating to the twelfth century. The two great upside-down “8”s, symbols of infinity, are made of stones and mosaic tesserae. At the top, two enormous sea monsters represent two different moments in the story of Jonah, while below you’ll find two peacocks, symbols of eternal life (their flesh was thought to be incorruptible).
You may not have known it, but in the Duomo of Ravello there is also a very important relic. It’s the solidified blood of Saint Pantaleon which, like that of San Gennaro in Naples, liquefies every year (here on 27 July, the saint’s day).
Here’s a curiosity!
The floor of the Duomo of Ravello has a strong slope towards the square. This served to give the faithful the impression that the building was much deeper than it really is. I’ve never come across anything like it in another church.
What else to say: the Duomo of Ravello is one of the most visited places on the whole Amalfi Coast, and you can go in every day from 9 to 12 and from 5.30 to 7 pm.
Don’t let it slip by.
The Path of the Gods on the Amalfi Coast
If you’re tired of strolling through the crowded town centres, on the Amalfi Coast you’ll find one of the most beautiful nature trails in Italy.
It’s the famous Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei), a nature trail about 7 km long over the Lattari mountains, suitable for walks and hikes. To walk the whole thing you’ll need about 3-4 hours, but the Path of the Gods will give you breathtaking views.
You start from Agerola and arrive at Positano, passing through the hamlet of Nocelle. Getting lost is practically impossible, because all along the way you’ll find signs pointing you in the right direction.
You can choose the high path or the low path, depending on what you prefer.
How are they different?
The high path involves a bit more climbing and is slightly harder, while the low path is easily walkable even by the less experienced. Among the wonders you’ll be able to see are the jagged coasts of the Amalfi Coast, the sea stacks of Capri and the Lattari mountains. You’ll pass beside the beaches of the sirens, which Ulysses sailed past in the Odyssey, and also some of the caves where human settlement is attested from the dawn of civilisation.
Admiring the landscapes of the Path of the Gods on the Amalfi Coast is an emotion you’ll hardly forget, so don’t miss the chance to take this long walk through beauty and nature.
San Salvatore de Birecto in Atrani
On the Amalfi Coast there are plenty of other towns to get to know and explore, but I wanted to close this post by telling you about Atrani, the smallest municipality in Italy by area (just 0.12 km²).
Why is it special?
By now you’ll have understood that the landscapes on the Coast are beautiful, but you’ll fall in love with little Atrani because it seems wedged between the rock and the sea. Just think that its village even inspired Escher: the Dutch artist stayed here in the 1930s and drew from it the famous lithograph Atrani, Coast of Amalfi (1931), whose geometries later return in his celebrated Metamorphoses.
It stayed with me in particular because I think it’s the most authentic place on the whole Amalfi Coast. The whole village has a very well-kept look, yet in keeping with the surrounding land and its history.
In short, you won’t feel at all like you’re in a crowded tourist resort.
Is there something to visit too?
Absolutely yes!
The centre is a small square, but if you think there’s nothing to see, you’re very much mistaken. Beyond the splendid seascape, here you’ll also find the church of San Salvatore, built shortly before the year 1000, and a famous stone fountain.
The church was particularly important in the past because it was here that the doge of the Republic of Amalfi was invested, receiving a typical cap called a “bireto”.
Among the things to see, I also recommend the beautiful eleventh-century bronze portal, and some lovely medieval decorations depicting peacocks, as in the Duomo of Ravello. If you pay attention to the details, you’ll also spot some beautiful medieval decorations in the Arab-Byzantine style that are so characteristic of this area.
In short, a little treasure just waiting to be discovered.
Where to stay on the Amalfi Coast
This part of Campania is extremely famous with tourists from all over Europe, so you won’t have any trouble finding accommodation for your holiday. The real difficulty, in fact, is not finding a free room or apartment, but finding one at a reasonable price.
To that end I can give you 2 tips for finding accommodation on the Amalfi Coast:
- Try to book several months in advance
- Take advantage of the quieter periods, such as June or September/October
If you follow these two pieces of advice, you won’t struggle to find wonderful places for less than €80 a night. Also bear in mind that the climate is particularly favourable until October.
Getting around the Amalfi Coast
When it comes to getting around, though, things get a little more complicated!
The main roads connecting the towns of the Amalfi Coast are really narrow and crossed by lots of coaches, so be very careful. In my own experience, I risked an accident several times because of the coaches that appear suddenly out of very tight bends, or I had to wait a long time because of the traffic.
Local people are probably used to driving on these roads, because they know the area very well, but for us it’s certainly a different matter.
Another thing not everyone knows is that finding a parking space on the Amalfi Coast can be a real feat. The car parks are ALL paid, and the cost is truly exorbitant, up to €5 an hour in high season.
So what should you do?
For this reason I’d recommend leaving the car at the hotel and getting around by public transport (the SITA buses and the ferries connecting the various villages). At your hotel they’ll be able to give you the most detailed information on times and passes.
But the loveliest way to get around remains the sea: a boat tour along the coast lets you see Positano and Amalfi from the water, with swimming stops in the prettiest coves, without the stress of traffic and parking. That’s how I recommend enjoying this coast.
