When I first visited Ostuni I had no expectations. I thought I’d find a typical Apulian town, with the classic little alleys and nice sea views, but nothing more.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m in love with this region, but after visiting Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, the trulli of Alberobello, the beautiful old town of Trani, Lecce and dozens of other little towns, I thought I’d seen the best of Puglia.
But no: Puglia amazed me once again!
Ostuni is spectacular and is called the “white city” because it’s entirely covered in white. The lime plaster on the walls amplifies the splendid southern light, so much so that it won’t even feel like Italy, but like landing on a little Greek island.
The blue of the sky and the sea, glittering a few kilometres away, creates a surreal atmosphere. If I had to paint my idea of a Mediterranean summer, Ostuni would be the perfect subject.
But that’s not all! Beyond its distinctive centre, Ostuni has received several awards for the beauty of its sea: it has collected five Legambiente “Vele” (sails) for the cleanliness of its coast and the services offered.
So, do you feel like taking a dip?
But Ostuni also has a very ancient history: inhabited since the Palaeolithic and an important centre in antiquity, this part of Puglia was crucial throughout the Middle Ages, amid the conflicts between Saracens and Byzantines.
But what to see in Ostuni and what to do?
Off we go!
The old town of Ostuni
If you’re wondering what to see in Ostuni, you absolutely can’t skip its beautiful old town. The “old city” is a labyrinth of little streets lined with houses and palaces entirely covered in white.
I recommend leaving the car outside the centre for two reasons: the streets are so narrow you risk getting stuck, and many of these alleys are dead ends. The only real artery is “Via Cattedrale”, the heart of city life, which cuts the town in two.
But how long does it take to visit Ostuni?
Allow at least two hours, not because the town is big, but because it’s worth enjoying the walk at a slow pace: the village has kept its medieval form and it’s a pleasure to discover even the smallest details. If you want to really understand its history, a walking tour with a local guide tells you the story of the lime and takes you up to the co-cathedral.
Here’s a curiosity!
Right in this area, Palaeolithic settlements have been found. In the 1990s (in 1991) the skeleton of the so-called Delia was discovered, a woman who lived about 28,000 years ago and died while pregnant, her right hand resting on her belly as if to protect the foetus. Its exceptional state of preservation made it an extraordinary discovery.
Extraordinary, isn’t it?
The co-cathedral of Ostuni
If you’re wondering what to see in Ostuni, don’t miss a visit to the main church. The co-cathedral dates to the 15th century (built between 1435 and 1495) and stands on the highest point of the village. It’s unusual because it blends Gothic art with the Apulian Romanesque.
Personally it didn’t wow me as much as other churches in the region: perhaps because I’m a medievalist, but the 18th-century interiors made it lose part of its ancient charm. Parts of the original frescoes are still visible, and the Baroque altar and the large canvases on the ceiling are very beautiful, but overall I was a little disappointed.
So isn’t it worth visiting?
In my view the best part is the façade, with a great Gothic rose window of 24 rays, among the largest in Europe; below it is a relief with the Madonna and Child in glory. Entry is paid (a symbolic ticket), but the façade alone is worth the stop.
Other churches and points of interest
Beyond the co-cathedral, in Ostuni there are two more churches worth visiting.
The first is the church of San Francesco, from 1304, built in Gothic style. Sadly little of the original structure remains: the interior is covered in stucco and the exterior was radically altered from the 17th century; towards the end of the 19th century even the façade was changed, to match that of the nearby convent (today the town hall).
Another interesting church is that of the Holy Spirit (Spirito Santo), in the old town: as with the others, the finest part is the exterior, with a beautiful 15th-century portal decorated with reliefs.
Anything else?
I’d also point out the Sant’Oronzo obelisk in Piazza della Libertà, the main square. Almost 21 metres high and carved in 1771, it was made as an ex-voto to Sant’Oronzo for protecting the city from plague and famine: at the top is the statue of the saint, while on the sides appear other figures like San Biagio and Sant’Agostino.
The beaches of Ostuni
If the white city left you speechless, the best is yet to come: when you think of Ostuni, the first thing that comes to mind is its wonderful coast.
Unlike Polignano a Mare or Monopoli, the town isn’t on the beach but on a small rise, which also served as a lookout. To reach the sea there are about 8 km of little roads amid century-old olive groves and dry-stone walls.
If that seems far, wait until you arrive.
The coast here stretches for about 20 km but changes so suddenly that it’s impossible to find two identical stretches: you go from the finest sand to high cliffs, passing lovely coves. On the Ostuni coast there’s also the Coastal Dunes Park, over 1,100 hectares of Mediterranean scrub where you can discover the scents of myrtle and rosemary.
But which are the most beautiful beaches?
I’d suggest starting from Villanova, where besides the sea you’ll find a fine Angevin castle that reminded me of the one in Roseto Capo Spulico. From here you easily reach some of the finest lidos, such as Lido Morelli, Lido Bosco Verde and the Pilone (with its Aragonese tower). Rosa Marina is famous for its very fine sand, while at Costa Merlata, Santa Lucia and Torre Pozzella the landscape becomes more jagged and rocky.
The surroundings of Ostuni
A few kilometres from Ostuni lie two very characteristic villages: Carovigno and Cisternino.
Carovigno, just 8 km away, has very ancient origins: I recommend it not only for the lovely old town, but above all for the Dentice di Frasso castle, from which, on clear days, the view reaches all the way to Brindisi.
Cisternino, about fifteen kilometres from Ostuni, was awarded the Orange Flag by the Touring Club for the beauty of the village and the quality of its services. It lies in the heart of the Itria Valley: and what if I told you it’s one of the areas where you find the famous trulli? Alberobello is only the most famous, but these buildings are found elsewhere too. In Cisternino you’ll find a few, along with the Governor’s palace and the typical white houses that strongly recall Ostuni.
Curiosity: why Ostuni is called the white city
Do you know why Ostuni is called the white city?
The answer seems almost obvious, doesn’t it?
Yet it hides an interesting curiosity. The name comes from the habit of whitewashing the houses with lime, a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. But a legend is tied to this practice: it’s said that, since lime is a natural disinfectant, it helped contain contagion during the plagues that ravaged Puglia. True or not, the lime certainly gave Ostuni its unmistakable whiteness.
And you, are you drawn more to the white maze of the old town or to its sea, awarded the five Vele?
