Among the cities to visit in Germany, I recommend a little gem that will make you fall in love: Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle), a city in North Rhine-Westphalia, a stone’s throw from the Belgian and Dutch border, which I’m particularly fond of and which holds some beautiful monuments tied to the Holy Roman Empire.
But how could such a small city have been so important?
It may surprise you, but most of Aachen’s monuments are down to Charlemagne, who made it the capital of his empire. Its fame lasted throughout the Middle Ages, remaining a very important pilgrimage centre thanks to the relics brought by the emperor and by Otto III. Aachen is also one of the most important spa destinations in Germany, known since Roman times.
But that’s not all: after the destruction of the Second World War, Aachen rebuilt itself as one of the country’s most important university cities, and some of the region’s finest Christmas markets are held here.
After visiting Berlin, Düsseldorf and the beautiful Cologne Cathedral, Charlemagne’s old capital was for me a treasure to discover, among baths, medieval churches, palaces and fountains.
Off we go!
The Rathaus in the Marktplatz
The Rathaus (Aachen town hall) is a majestic Gothic building of 1330, built on the ruins of Charlemagne’s palace; it overlooks the main square, the Markt. From the emperor’s time survive the base of the Granusturm and part of the masonry on the south side.
Sadly the building hasn’t had a lucky history: it fell victim to a fire at the end of the 18th century (the roofs were redone in Baroque style), to a second fire in 1840 and finally to the Second World War, which destroyed about 65% of Aachen’s buildings.
Once the site of coronations, today the coronation hall hosts the Charlemagne Prize (Karlspreis), honouring European figures who have stood out for the unity of the continent.
And there’s a tastier reason to linger in the square too: in winter it holds the Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market), while in summer you can enjoy the view over a waffle or an ice cream.
The Palatine Chapel of Charlemagne
The Palatine Chapel of Aachen was commissioned by Charlemagne between 786 and 804, and is today the heart of the cathedral, the first German site inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1978). For centuries the German rulers were crowned here: over about 600 years, as many as 30 kings and emperors ascended the throne.
The architect was Odo of Metz, under the supervision of Einhard, one of the most cultured figures at the emperor’s court.
The chapel’s plan is octagonal, to emphasise the number eight (as at Castel del Monte), a symbol of perfection. Its structure takes inspiration from the early churches of Rome and above all from San Vitale in Ravenna, with its incredible mosaics, and it was directly attached to the royal palace.
Why visit it?
It isn’t huge, but it holds works of enormous value: the gilded ambo of Henry II (1014), the original throne of Charlemagne, his gilded statue and his sarcophagus. And above all, look up: the central dome is entirely covered in golden mosaics.
The Barbarossa chandelier
A detail not everyone notices is the great chandelier of the chapel, a gift from Frederick I Barbarossa (crowned in Aachen in 1152).
Why is it so important?
Because it isn’t just a chandelier: it’s a representation of the heavenly Jerusalem. Made in the 12th century entirely of bronze by master Wibert, it has a diameter of over 4 metres and, along its rim, 16 turrets and 48 flames, just like the heavenly city described in Saint John’s Apocalypse.
A work that truly deserves more attention, don’t you think?
The Dom Schatzkammer (cathedral treasury)
The Dom Schatzkammer is the cathedral treasury and, despite its small size, holds goldsmith’s works of incredible value: the ivory covers of ancient medieval codices, the crowns of the German emperors, precious statues and furnishings.
I found the wooden statue of Charlemagne at the entrance, the ivory aspersorium (11th century) and the perfectly preserved casket of Richard of Cornwall (1238) beautiful. The ticket costs a few euros (check the updated price) and can be combined with a guided tour of the cathedral.
Don’t miss it!
The medieval gates and the shopping
Two ancient city gates are well preserved: the Marschiertor and the Ponttor, both from the 13th century and part of the old walls.
For shopping, head towards Adalbertstraße, near the Elisenbrunnen, the elegant neoclassical building of the spa, where you’ll find shops of every kind and excellent Bäckerei (bakeries) for a treat.
And you, are you drawn more to Charlemagne’s throne or to the golden mosaics of his Palatine Chapel?
