Cologne Cathedral is surely the first thing you’ll notice when you arrive in this beautiful German city. You’ll find it right in front of you as soon as you step out of the central station, and nothing can prepare you for such an immense spectacle.
The size of this cathedral is truly astonishing, so much so that it’s visible from almost every corner of the city. But what will amaze you even more is its history, a tale as fascinating as it is troubled.
Let me tell you why!
Have you ever had building work done at home?
When it comes to construction, the complaints are always the same: it takes forever, the workers are slow, and you always go over the budget you’d planned.
Sure, but what does all this have to do with Cologne Cathedral?
Don’t worry, you’re not about to read a post on home renovations: it’s just that building Cologne Cathedral ran into exactly the same problems we’d have today… only on a colossal scale!
It took more than 600 years to build this magnificent cathedral, even longer than Milan Cathedral.
Work began in 1248 and continued until 1473, when it stopped for lack of funds: for over three centuries the famous medieval crane stood motionless on the south tower, becoming the symbol of the unfinished city. In all that time only the choir had been completed, used for ordinary religious services.
Work then resumed in 1842 and ended in 1880.
And then?
If you want to know more, you’ll discover the whole history and curiosities of Cologne Cathedral right below. I also recommend reading my article on the 5 museums to see in Cologne. You won’t regret it!
Let’s go!
Cologne Cathedral: the cathedral of records
As I’ve already told you, building Cologne Cathedral took more than 600 years. But there are many other numbers that make it a true cathedral of records.
For example?
The two great towers rising on the façade of Cologne Cathedral are over 157 metres tall. This made it the tallest building in the world from 1880 to 1884, a record later snatched by the Washington Monument and, a few years on, by the Eiffel Tower, a full 300 metres high.
Even today the cathedral holds the title of second-tallest church in Germany, after Ulm Minster, and it is the tallest cathedral in the world.
But that’s not all!
Can you picture the immense size of this church’s façade?
Well, the cathedral holds the record for the largest façade of any church in the world, and it’s among the Gothic churches with the tallest nave: a full 43 metres.
When you go to see Cologne Cathedral you’ll take part in another record, that of the most visited monument in Germany: around 6 million people come here every year, an average of 20,000 a day.
And there’s more: among its bells, Cologne Cathedral holds the Petersglocke, nicknamed dicke Pitter (“fat Peter”). Cast in the early 1920s and weighing about 24 tonnes, it was, until 2016, the largest free-swinging bell in the world, and it remains the one with the deepest voice.
Well, have I amazed you?
As surprising as these numbers are, the story of its construction is even more interesting.
Let me tell you right away!
The origins of the cathedral
Work on Cologne Cathedral began in the Middle Ages on top of earlier buildings. I say “buildings” in the plural because, given the enormous size of the church, several were incorporated: a Roman temple, a Carolingian church and another church destroyed by fire in 1248.
Just think: the decision to build a great cathedral came precisely from the loss of that last church.
The aim was to create in Cologne a grand temple worthy of the relics of the Three Kings (Magi), which had reached the city from Milan in 1164. They were brought not directly by Frederick Barbarossa but by his chancellor and archbishop Rainald von Dassel, after the emperor’s conquest of Milan. So a Latin-cross cathedral was designed, with five naves, two great towers and a splendid choir.
The genius behind the project, who died while the works were under way, was Master Gerhard.
In the Middle Ages architects were versatile figures who didn’t limit themselves to designing buildings but also oversaw their decoration. Often, in agreement with their patrons, they hid symbolic meanings in the measurements and proportions.
Do you want to know whether this happened at Cologne Cathedral too?
It certainly did!
The wealthy archbishop Konrad von Hochstaden and Master Gerhard devised a whole series of symbols echoing the sacred texts of Christianity. Twelve are the doors of the cathedral, like the apostles and the gates of the heavenly Jerusalem; seven the radial chapels of the choir, like the virtues and the deadly sins.
Today this symbolism amazes us and often gives rise to fanciful theories about Freemasonry and esotericism. In reality, in the Middle Ages almost all the most important buildings were made following this symbolic language, an integral part of the culture of the time and recognisable by the whole population.
How Cologne Cathedral was built
Visiting Cologne Cathedral is an unforgettable experience. It is one of the finest examples of Gothic art in Germany and, even though it was only completed in the 19th century, its original parts make it one of the most beautiful cathedrals in the world.
The inspiration is undoubtedly French. If you’ve read my article on Saint-Denis, you’ll know it was the first Gothic cathedral in the world, made possible by the brilliant insights of Abbot Suger.
But Cologne Cathedral has one peculiarity compared with the French cathedrals, concerning the stones used to build it.
Do you want to know what it is?
It may seem absurd, but in the area where the church rose there was no supply of raw materials: they were transported from afar, with the main quarries some eighty kilometres away. If that seems little today, back then it was a long and dangerous journey, especially considering the size and weight of the blocks being moved!
So how did they manage?
Just like most great churches, Cologne Cathedral was built thanks to a kind of “crowdfunding” ante litteram: popular devotion and private donations covered most of the costs.
The same thing had happened at Milan Cathedral, whose building materials were even exempted from tax to allow the church to go up.
In Cologne, unfortunately, goodwill wasn’t enough, and even private funding fell short of finishing the project on time. After the halt of 1473, the building was completed only three centuries later, thanks to the Prussian court’s determination to finish the great medieval project. You may not believe it, but the original façade drawings were rediscovered and followed to the letter to complete the construction.
In the full Romantic era, the allure of Gothic and the Middle Ages had won over the population who, as centuries before, provided most of the money needed to complete the enormous structure.
Even Emperor Wilhelm I took part in its inauguration, in 1880.
The cathedral in the Second World War
By now you’ll have understood that this church has had a truly complicated history. But if you thought its misfortunes ended there, you haven’t yet heard the worst part.
Its darkest page dates to the Second World War, when the cathedral was hit no fewer than 14 times by Allied bombs.
As happened to Düsseldorf and many other German cities, much of Cologne was razed to the ground, but the cathedral miraculously remained standing, becoming a real symbol for the whole of Germany (its spires even served as a landmark for pilots).
What to see inside Cologne Cathedral
I think I’ve told you enough about the structure. Now I imagine you want to know what to see inside Cologne Cathedral, right?
The most famous treasure the cathedral holds is undoubtedly the Dreikönigenschrein, the Shrine of the Three Kings: the great reliquary that still holds the relics of the Magi, behind the high altar. The work of Nicholas of Verdun and his workshop (between about 1180 and 1225), it is made of gold and gilded silver over a wooden core, enriched with over a thousand gems, enamels and cameos. It is the largest reliquary of the medieval West and one of the supreme masterpieces of goldsmithing of all time.
But that’s not all!
Inside the cathedral you can admire around 10,000 square metres of stained glass. Most is from the 19th century, but there are far older windows too, dating back to the 14th century. And then there’s a contemporary surprise: the stained-glass window by Gerhard Richter (2007), an abstract mosaic of 11,500 small squares of glass in dozens of colours, arranged almost at random, which in the south transept creates a spectacular play of light.
Don’t miss the famous Gero Cross (datable to around 965-970), one of the first great monumental crucifixes north of the Alps and one of the very earliest examples of Christus patiens: Christ is shown suffering, eyes closed, to emphasise his human rather than divine nature.
Beautiful, too, is the altar of the city’s patron saints, the work of Stefan Lochner, datable to around 1442, a masterpiece of the late Gothic school of Cologne.
Other treasures can be seen in the Schatzkammer, the treasury, set up in the cathedral’s basement: medieval crosses, croziers, episcopal vestments, statues and reliquaries, above all masterpieces of goldsmithing.
If you want to explore the most beautiful museums in Cologne, you can read my article here.
Practical information
Here is some useful information for visiting Cologne Cathedral (always check the up-to-date hours on the official website before you go).
One important piece of news: since 1 July 2026, tourist entry to the cathedral is no longer free. The ticket costs €12 (reduced €6), free up to age 13. Access remains free for those coming to pray, light a candle or attend religious services. Tourist visits are generally possible from Monday to Saturday, 10:00 to 17:45, and on Sunday in the early afternoon.
I strongly recommend climbing the cathedral towers, from which you get a splendid view over the city: it’s 533 steps (no lift, so bear that in mind if you’re not fit or suffer from claustrophobia), at a cost of about €7. The treasury also costs about €7, and there’s a good-value combined tower + treasury ticket.
If you’re in Cologne, all up-to-date information is available at the tourist office, right in front of the cathedral!
The thrill of visiting Cologne Cathedral
The thrill of visiting Cologne Cathedral is unforgettable. I’ve been at least a dozen times, and I’m always stunned by its enormous size and the beauty of its forms.
Many say it makes them dizzy; for me it’s more like Stendhal syndrome: I could spend hours letting my eyes wander over its decorations. The stained glass, the floors, the tombs of its builders, the works inside make it more beautiful than a museum. The coloured light filtering in, the columns and the vaults make it look like a forest of stone.
Two immortal writers can describe it better than I can, Petrarch and Goethe. I’ll close this post by leaving you their words.
«I have seen in the midst of the city a most beautiful temple, though unfinished, which they not undeservedly call “supreme”» — Petrarch
«As I walked I trembled in advance at the thought of seeing a shapeless, confused, tangled monster. How unexpected was the feeling that swept over me when I discovered the building! My soul was pervaded by a powerful impression which I could certainly savour, but not define or explain, for it arose from a thousand details in harmony with one another» — Goethe
And you, have you ever climbed the towers of Cologne Cathedral? How did it feel to find it in front of you as you left the station?
