Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola is a structure unlike any other in the world. It’s a real gem of the Tuscia area, sadly little known and little publicised, but I promise you that as soon as you step through the front door, it will be love at first sight.
Just think, I got there completely by chance myself.
One afternoon when I was bored to death, Andrea and I simply decided to jump in the car and go. You’ll find the story of that little adventure here and, even though my expectations were really low, both Caprarola and Palazzo Farnese literally left me speechless!
Why?
Well, I simply never imagined I’d find so much beauty in this small town in the Viterbo area.
I expected anything but an imposing pentagonal palace, built on two levels, with an impressive façade reached by two flights of stairs. I expected anything but grottoes, frescoes and beautiful painted cycles perfectly preserved in every room. I expected anything but spending two hours with my nose in the air admiring those ceilings.
I have to admit I even felt a little resentful!
Yes, because Caprarola really lacks nothing. Besides the village and Palazzo Farnese, it’s a stone’s throw from the nature reserve of Lake Vico, the food is divine, and it sits at the heart of a truly underrated area.
As had already happened to me in Palestrina, at the Park of the Monsters in Bomarzo or in Civita di Bagnoregio, Caprarola too reminded me that Lazio is an extremely beautiful region, rich in works of art and natural beauty.
Do you fancy learning a bit more?
Let’s go!
The building of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola
When you arrive in Caprarola, you’ll notice that the town is literally cut in two by a straight, slightly sloping street. On either side stand old medieval houses, workshops and small Renaissance palaces.
But the town’s real jewel lies right at the end of that street.
But what is such an important palace doing in Caprarola?
You should know that it was Cardinal Alessandro Farnese the Elder (the future Pope Paul III) who wanted a fortified palace in Caprarola. He entrusted the design to Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, assisted by Baldassarre Peruzzi: work began around 1530. The idea was a mighty pentagonal fortress, but the site came to a halt in 1546 with Sangallo’s death.
Only later, in 1559, did the cardinal’s grandson, Alessandro Farnese the Younger, decide to entrust the project’s continuation to Vignola (Jacopo Barozzi), who worked on it until his death, in 1573.
Vignola made many changes to the original plan, transforming the fortress into a refined Renaissance villa, as was then fashionable. At the centre of the residence he opened a circular two-storey courtyard; the hill, moreover, was completely terraced to embed the palace in the urban fabric while keeping it in a raised, commanding position.
Just think that, to make room for the road leading to Palazzo Farnese, all the buildings along the route were demolished, houses and churches included. So as not to displease the nobles who had their summer residences there, Alessandro Farnese even had other palaces built, still visible today.
I recommend visiting at least the two churches along the way, the church of the Madonna della Consolazione and the church of Santa Teresa, which holds an altarpiece attributed to Guido Reni.
Inside Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola
Once past the two beautiful staircases leading to the entrance, you’ll finally reach the door of this fantastic residence.
But what is there to see inside?
You should know that some of the finest artists of the time were called in for the palace’s decoration. Taddeo Zuccari and then his brother Federico Zuccari carried out most of the frescoes, together with Jacopo Bertoja, Giovanni de’ Vecchi and others. The painted cycles were conceived with complex allegorical and symbolic meanings by the scholars and humanists of the day.
One of the wonders of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola is the beautiful Royal Staircase (Scala Regia).
It’s a spiral staircase, but don’t be fooled by appearances. It’s supported by no fewer than 30 columns of peperino stone and has a feature I’d never come across in any Renaissance palace: Alessandro Farnese had the steps made much wider than necessary, because he had no intention of going up on foot, but on his… horse!
Incredible, isn’t it?
But this staircase is beautiful not only for its structure: splendid frescoes (by Antonio Tempesta) run all around and across the ceiling.
Once at the top, you can reach the Piano Nobile and visit some of the palace’s most beautiful rooms. Let me tell you about them.
The rooms of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola
Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola boasts many splendid rooms.
The one I liked most is the Room of the Map of the World (or of the Geographical Maps). Here you’ll find great maps of the world as it was then known, with figures of navigators and explorers; on the vault, meanwhile, are painted the constellations that guided sailors in the discovery of new worlds.
This room is very special because it makes you realise how much people knew about the world at that time. It’s a little reminiscent of the Gallery of Maps in the Vatican Museums… on a much smaller scale, of course.
And then?
Among the finest, the Room of Jupiter, whose ceiling depicts the stories of the king of Olympus, and the Room of the Deeds of Hercules. Here you’ll find the beautiful frescoes telling the myth of the creation of Lake Vico: according to legend it was Hercules who brought it into being, driving a pole into the ground which, once pulled out, made the water gush forth (the cardinal Alessandro himself was identified with the demigod).
Let me point out one last interesting thing!
Another splendid space is the circular courtyard, whose ambulatory is richly decorated with grotesques.
Grotesques are minute, fanciful decorations inspired by ancient Roman ones. Renaissance artists studied them in underground spaces, such as Nero’s Domus Aurea: at the time those halls were buried underground, and that’s why they were called “grotesques”, as if they were decorations found in natural grottoes!
In short, you’ll have understood that it’s really hard to say which decorations are the most interesting: every room is a wonder in itself!
Seeing is believing.
The gardens of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola
I couldn’t tell whether they were closed or I just didn’t find the right way in, but of the gardens of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola I visited only a tiny part. All I managed to see was one artificial grotto, but I only found out later that they are much more extensive.
They are, to all intents and purposes, an Italian-style garden, running from the palace up to a wood where you’ll find beautiful sculptures, fountains and water features.
As with nearby Villa d’Este in Tivoli, the gardens of Palazzo Farnese are a true monumental complex. The aim was to brighten the cardinal’s moments of relaxation, but also to amaze his guests. Vignola’s skill lay precisely in transforming the original fortress into an aristocratic and fashionable villa.
The final result will truly leave you speechless!
The gardens are laid out in the tradition of the time, with well-defined geometric shapes, a winter garden and a summer garden. There are also artificial grottoes clad in limestone, and pools with water features and statues of satyrs, plus the scenic Palazzina del Piacere (garden casino) at the top of the garden.
Here’s a curiosity!
Apparently Cardinal Alessandro Farnese was a great joker: that’s why he also had water features installed that suddenly spurt up from the garden floor, to surprise his guests.
Practical information for visiting Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola
Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola is open to the public every day except Monday, from 8:30 to 19:30 (last entry 18:45). The full ticket costs €10 (€8 when the park is closed), reduced €2 for 18-25s, free up to 18.
Note: on the first Sunday of the month entry is free for everyone, but it’s best to go early to avoid the queue! Remember to set aside at least an hour and a half to visit this extraordinary residence.
To reach Caprarola you can take the Cotral coach from Rome, though there aren’t many services (especially for the return). So I’d recommend going by car and taking the chance to explore the beautiful Lake Vico reserve. And if you’d like someone to guide you through the rooms and explain the frescoes and their symbols, you can book a guided tour of the palace with entry.
And you, had you heard of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola? Did the Royal Staircase strike you more, or the Room of the Map of the World?
