Have you ever thought of visiting Civita di Bagnoregio? Would you like to know why this little town has become so famous around the world and why it got the name “the dying town”?
Let me tell you right away!
The village of Civita di Bagnoregio lies near Lake Bolsena, in the Valle dei Calanchi. Here the gradual erosion of the surrounding ground is condemning the town: one day, sadly, Civita di Bagnoregio could crumble away and vanish for good.
The soil in this area is mostly clay and tufa, which has caused considerable erosion from rainfall and streams, giving the landscape its very distinctive look.
This village, nicknamed “the dying town”, is unique in the world.
But there’s so much to say about Bagnoregio. Below I’ll tell you why you should visit Civita di Bagnoregio to discover one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and in Lazio.
Want to know more?
Off we go!
Read also about my experience in Pitigliano.
The history of Civita di Bagnoregio
The area where Bagnoregio stands has been inhabited since Etruscan times.
The dying town sits in a privileged position that not only allowed control of the whole surrounding valley, but was also rich in water and vegetation.
Access to Civita di Bagnoregio was ensured by five gates, reached by striking roads carved into the rock. Even back then erosion was a serious problem, so much so that the Etruscans and later the Romans dug and embanked the streams to save Civita.
What remains today in Civita di Bagnoregio?
The buildings you can still see in this village are mostly medieval and Renaissance, while the large footbridge that leads to it dates to 1965. There’s no shortage, though, of Etruscan and Roman traces, such as an ancient necropolis.
Sadly, much of the original town was compromised by the violent earthquake of 1695, which accelerated the isolation of the crag; even today, however, Civita di Bagnoregio is counted among the most beautiful villages in Italy, not only for its fame as a dying town but also for its beautiful panorama and breathtaking views.
I consider it one of those places to see at least once in your life!
Did you know that one of the great saints of the Middle Ages was born right in Bagnoregio? Here, in 1221, Saint Bonaventure was born, theologian, Doctor of the Church and minister general of the Franciscan order: tradition says it was Saint Francis himself who, healing him as a child, exclaimed “o buona ventura!” (“oh, good fortune!”), giving him the name by which we know him.
What to see in Civita di Bagnoregio
The little town looks like a fragile island in the middle of the Valle dei Calanchi. Even from afar you’ll notice the village, with the bell tower of its only church rising at its centre.
The feeling I had was one of extreme instability, as if at any moment the town might sink into the ground and be lost forever.
The calm and the silence make Civita di Bagnoregio even more surreal. Cars are of course banned inside the village, where only a handful of businesses remain to remind you that we’re no longer in the Middle Ages but in modern times.
But what is there to see inside?
Nothing… or rather, everything!
To enter the town you’ll have to pass through Porta Santa Maria, where you’ll find the symbol of the city of Bagnoregio: two lions crushing human figures, symbolising the townspeople of Civita crushing tyrants.
From the entrance on, entering Civita di Bagnoregio is like travelling back in time!
Strolling among its little streets, between flowers, stone houses and small churches, is very evocative, and the panorama from its balconies is among the finest in the area.
The medieval structures are all quite similar to one another, but there are also a few noble palaces built by important families from Viterbo during the Renaissance: the Colesanti, Bocca and Alemanni palaces.
If you’re looking for something to visit in Civita di Bagnoregio, inside the Alemanni palace you’ll find the Geological and Landslide Museum, which will help you better understand the territory, its evolution and its peculiarities.
The most important square, if not the only one, is Piazza San Donato, and this is where the bell tower you spotted from afar stands. The church, built over an Etruscan temple, is a splendid example of 16th-century Viterbo architecture, even though the interior was unfortunately renovated and has lost much of its charm.
In short, to visit Civita di Bagnoregio, let instinct guide you: the whole village is a maze of little lanes to discover, ones that will make you fall in love at every glance. There are also several balconies overlooking the Valle dei Calanchi, and I must admit the view is truly striking.
A few curiosities for visiting Civita
For some years now Civita di Bagnoregio has become a major tourist attraction precisely for its fame as “the dying town”.
But that’s not the only reason.
Many of the tourists who visit Civita come from China and Japan, and it’s no coincidence. It’s said that the village inspired the master of animation Hayao Miyazaki: the film usually associated with Civita is “Castle in the Sky” (Laputa, 1986), whose floating island recalls the crag wrapped in the morning mist. Studio Ghibli has never officially confirmed it, but Miyazaki did visit the area in 1990: legend or not, the charm remains.
So don’t be surprised if, during your visit to Bagnoregio, you find many tourists of Asian origin.
Another striking fact concerns the residents: Civita di Bagnoregio today has only a handful of permanent inhabitants (barely a dozen).
How to visit Civita
The only way to enter Civita di Bagnoregio is across the long footbridge built in modern times. In the past there was another bridge, in masonry, which sadly the German troops blew up during the Second World War.
Crossing the bridge is possible only after paying a small “toll”, effectively the only resource with which the local administration funds the restoration works and keeps the village accessible despite the landslides.
The ticket to enter the village costs 5 € (also bookable online, so you skip the queue at the ticket offices) and is free for some categories. It’s worth checking updated prices and hours before you go, since they change in high season.
If you want to arrive by car in Civita di Bagnoregio and don’t know where to park, there’s a handy car park, also paid, a short distance from the bridge. The bridge, however, can only be crossed on foot.
What to see near Civita di Bagnoregio
This part of the Viterbo area is perhaps one of the most beautiful and distinctive in all of Lazio.
From Bagnoregio you can reach naturalistic attractions of extreme beauty, such as Lake Bolsena, or continue the cultural tour by visiting the lovely Orvieto or the old town of Viterbo.
Not far away is the famous Park of the Monsters of Bomarzo. If you’re lucky enough to catch a fine day, it’s the ideal place to end your trip in the Viterbo area.
In short, I recommend you visit Civita di Bagnoregio and then move on to the neighbouring towns: I’m sure you’ll be spoilt for choice.
How to get to Civita di Bagnoregio
Civita is actually a small hamlet of the municipality of Bagnoregio, which you’ll cross to reach this spur of rock.
By car you can take the A1 motorway, exit at Orvieto and continue towards Bagnoregio for about 18 km; alternatively, exit at Attigliano and continue for about 30 km, again towards Bagnoregio.
And you, are you drawn more to Civita di Bagnoregio’s fragility suspended in the void, or to the charm of a village frozen in the Middle Ages?
