The sanctuary of Fortuna Primigenia stands in Palestrina, a town not far from Rome. In antiquity this city was famous precisely for its hugely important sanctuary dedicated to Fortuna Primigenia, one of the largest and most venerated oracular sites in the Roman world. Palestrina was such an important place of pilgrimage that its ancient name, Praeneste, gave its name to the road that led there, the Via Prenestina.
This little town was always very wealthy, above all thanks to its strategic position: it clings to the slopes of Monte Ginestro and dominates the whole valley. There was probably a settlement here even before the founding of Rome; in fact, archaeological remains from the 6th century BC have been found, long before the temple itself was built.
Visiting Palestrina and its beautiful sanctuary of Fortuna Primigenia will let you dive into the past, to discover crucial aspects of the spirituality of ancient Rome, an extraordinary work of architecture and a museum with one great masterpiece.
What’s more, I’ll tell you a little curiosity that will show you that, deep down, not much has changed in 2,000 years, and that the ancient Romans behaved just like we do today.
Would you like to know more?
Let’s begin!
A short history of Palestrina
As I was saying, the history of Palestrina is very ancient, and there are many legends about its founding. One of the most famous tells that the city was founded by Telegonus, son of Ulysses and the sorceress Circe; the Romans, on the other hand, linked it to Caeculus, son of the god Vulcan.
Myths aside, what we know for certain is that a pre-Roman settlement already existed here, which then came into Rome’s orbit together with the allies of the Latin League.
But why were the Romans interested in this land?
Its position was strategic: it dominated the valley and was a busy passage towards southern Italy, so much so that it was already equipped with important fortifications.
But there’s more!
Among the events that marked the history of Palestrina is the famous civil war between Marius and Sulla. The city sided with the Marians, and it was right here that Marius the Younger (son of the famous Marius) took refuge and died in 82 BC, during Sulla’s siege. It is also said that Praeneste was one of the ancient Romans’ holiday retreats, appreciated even in the imperial age, a little like the villa of Tiberius at Sperlonga.
But, the city’s history aside, the real treasure of this place is the famous sanctuary of Fortuna Primigenia.
Here is what you will find and why it is so important.
The temple of Fortuna Primigenia
The sanctuary of Palestrina, dedicated to Fortuna Primigenia, was built around the end of the 2nd century BC, although excavations have brought to light remains of even older places of worship.
The temple was gigantic: so large that it was visible even from Rome, more than thirty kilometres away.
It is thought to have been built thanks to the investment of several families who had grown rich through trade. You may not believe it, but to build the temple of Fortuna Primigenia the very shape of the terrain was altered, carving out six enormous artificial terraces that rise one above another along the flank of the mountain, connected by monumental staircases and held up by mighty substructures.
But why was it so important already in antiquity?
Quite simply because here you could consult the oracle.
The great oracular temples were of Greek tradition: the most famous of antiquity was the temple of Apollo at Delphi, with its priestess, the Pythia. Well, at Palestrina too the faithful could come to have their future foretold or to question the goddess on important matters.
For this reason, although it was built in the late Republican age, the sanctuary of Palestrina looks back to the great Greek oracular sanctuaries (you’ll find a beautiful one on Rhodes too).
But what was on the artificial terraces?
Let me tell you now.
The terraces of the temple of Palestrina
As I said at the start, some things haven’t changed since Roman times. Just like today at the great places of pilgrimage, back then there were already souvenir shops: they lined the terraces of the temple of Palestrina and let pilgrims buy a memento of their journey.
But a real ritual also took place on the terraces.
The first terraces gave access to the sacred area: along a guided route, pilgrims were purified through ablutions. Then, up two monumental staircases, they reached the area of the oracle. Here, in a rite described by Cicero too (the famous sortes Praenestinae), a boy drew from a chest wooden tablets inscribed with words, which represented the goddess’s response.
Right opposite stood the statue of the goddess Fortuna, shown nursing the infants Jupiter and Juno, an unusual image that struck the ancients too.
But it doesn’t end there!
On the terraces there was probably also an olive grove and, after the response, pilgrims reached a great square with a wide portico and a circular temple.
Here’s another curiosity!
Even Cicero records that the sanctuary of Palestrina was among the most sacred for the Romans: generals themselves came here to consult the goddess Fortuna before their military campaigns. The temple was so important that coins were minted depicting the container from which the responses were drawn.
The museum of Palestrina and the Nile Mosaic
As you can imagine, thanks to the constant pilgrimages and the influx of wealthy Romans, the sanctuary accumulated great riches.
The National Archaeological Museum of Praeneste, housed in the Palazzo Barberini built above the terraces of the sanctuary, still preserves exceptional finds. The most famous is without doubt the Nile Mosaic (or Barberini Mosaic), a gigantic mosaic with scenes of life along the river Nile, dating to between the 2nd and 1st century BC.
It is a true map: it depicts the course of the Nile from the borders of Ethiopia to the Mediterranean, with temples, cities and the port of Alexandria in Egypt. The details are wonderful: hunting and fishing scenes, a great variety of animals, Egyptian and Macedonian soldiers. It was probably made on site by Alexandrian artists, whose presence in Italy is documented as early as the 2nd century BC, and it bears witness to the fascination Egypt held for the Roman world.
Among the details, I was really struck by the rhinoceros, shown almost as if armoured: beside it, a Greek inscription specifies the subject, rinokeros!
Today the mosaic is displayed vertically, but in antiquity it lay on the floor of an apsidal hall of the ancient forum. This masterpiece leaves you speechless: its imposing size and the splendour of the scenes are timeless.
The temple of Palestrina today
Sadly, in the 1500s the inhabitants began to “invade” the ancient terraces of the temple. A new district rose here, known as “the Borgo”, and much of the ancient material and decoration was reused to build the new houses.
The area was so altered that it was no longer possible to make out the original structure of the temple of Palestrina. In the 1600s the powerful Barberini family built their palace right on the highest terrace of the sanctuary, echoing its shape, and were among the first to take an interest in the site’s history (it was then that the famous Nile Mosaic re-emerged).
So why is the sanctuary visible again today?
Through a tragic coincidence. The bombings of the Second World War (1944) hit Palestrina hard, destroying the very modern houses built over the temple. Paradoxically, that rubble freed the ancient terraces.
And so?
If today we can admire this imposing structure of antiquity, we owe it to the post-war excavations. Once the debris was removed, the ancient Roman foundations finally came back to light, and you can still admire them today, climbing from terrace to terrace up to the Palazzo Barberini.
Practical information for visiting Palestrina
- Where: Palestrina, about 35 km from Rome. You climb the sanctuary on foot along the terraces up to the Palazzo Barberini, which houses the museum.
- Getting there: by car from the A24 (Tivoli exit) or the A1 (Valmontone/San Cesareo exit); by public transport, the Cotral bus from Rome (Anagnina or Ponte Mammolo metro stations) or the regional train Rome Termini–Zagarolo with a connecting bus. It’s about 40 minutes from Rome: one of the loveliest day trips out of the city.
- Ticket and hours: admission to the National Archaeological Museum of Praeneste is inexpensive (around €10), free on the first Sunday of the month; the museum is closed on some days of the week. Always check current times and prices on the official website before you go.
If you enjoyed walking inside ancient Rome, after Palestrina I also recommend Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli nearby, Ostia Antica and the Appian Way.
And you, what intrigues you most about Palestrina: the terraces of the oracular sanctuary or the great Nile Mosaic?
