It took me months to write about the castle of Tomar, because talking about it is not at all easy for me.
My mother longed to go there, but she didn’t have time: she passed away first. She was fascinated by the Templars and all the legends surrounding this order of fighting monks, and she always travelled in search of their most symbolic places. Tomar, though, she never managed to visit.
I was terrified at the idea of visiting the castle of Tomar, because of the emotional reactions I might have, and yet at the same time I felt I had to do it, partly for her and partly for myself.
Thinking little about the Templars and much more about what that journey meant, I decided to set off from Lisbon to visit Tomar.
If you too are about to go to Tomar to discover the secrets of the Knights Templar, you should know that the old town of this Portuguese city is one of the loveliest in the region. Not only can you visit everything on foot, but you can also stroll along the riverside and relax before the splendid panorama of the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes.
But that’s not all!
You’ve surely heard of the beautiful Convent of Christ. It’s the former headquarters of the Templars but, beyond its esoteric charm, it’s a marvellous place because you’ll find a perfect mix of architectural styles: Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance elements and the sumptuous Manueline style, so typically Portuguese.
Want to know more?
In this post I’ll tell you how my journey went and what to see and do in Tomar to discover the finest monuments of this city.
Off we go!
Reaching the castle of Tomar
When I arrived in Tomar, in my long white floral dress, I felt as if I’d landed in another world. Having left the bustle of Lisbon behind, around the station of Tomar there was absolutely nothing.
The sun beating down, a light wind. No buses, no cars, no inhabitants. I didn’t even have an internet connection, nor any idea how to reach the famous Convent of Christ.
What to do?
I spotted the tip of a bell tower in the distance and headed towards it.
These ancient structures were always built to mark inhabited centres, measure time and highlight sacred places. It’s strange how, in the age of Google Maps, a travel blogger overwhelmed by desolation clings to a medieval relic like a bell tower to find her way.
But of the castle of Tomar, not a trace.
How can you not see a castle?
I turn, I follow the Templar crosses on the pavements, I turn again, I plunge into the deserted streets of Tomar.
And then I see it.
The huge castle of Tomar, ringed by walls, perched on the hill: imperious, majestic, beautiful. I climb happily up the slope. It’s hot, but a light breeze makes the sun bearable.
When you cross the ancient walls of the castle of Tomar, a powerful emotion will seize you: medieval ruins, thousand-year-old walls mingling with more recent ones, the clean forms of the 12th century alternating with the lavish Manueline style.
In short, a place unique in the world.
Now let me tell you what lies within.
The Convent of Christ and its wonders
Visiting Tomar and the Convent of Christ will be like discovering a hidden treasure. At the centre you’ll find a beautiful octagonal church, the Charola: it was not only the heart of the monastery, but also had a shape with a deep symbolic meaning. It echoes that of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem (and the Dome of the Rock), the places the Templars were called to protect.
But what is there to see?
This place is astonishing because styles from very different eras live side by side here. The Romanesque Charola is from the second half of the 12th century, while the enormous nave dates from the 16th. And that’s not all: you’ll find Romanesque sculptures next to decorations in the Manueline style, named after King Manuel I, who was also grand master of the Order of Christ.
When you enter the castle of Tomar, pay attention to the details.
The most evocative parts are the cloisters, especially the Renaissance ones. But the true masterpiece is the famous Manueline window (the janela do Capítulo), carved around 1510: a riot of ropes, sailors’ knots, seaweed and armillary spheres that seems to petrify the spirit of a nation of navigators. It’s the most photographed piece of stonework in Portugal.
Among the things to do in Tomar, I also recommend a long walk along the walls, from which you can still see the spaces where the order gathered.
But the beauty of this monastery lies entirely in the silent contemplation it breathes: a corner of history waiting to be explored, that can be read in the stones and savoured to the lazy rhythm of a late-July day in the Portuguese interior.
History of the Convent of Christ and the Templars
The Convent of Christ is closely bound to the history of the Knights Templar. The castle was founded around 1160 by Gualdim Pais, the order’s provincial master, as a defensive bulwark of the young Christian kingdom against the Moors.
If you’ve read anything about this order, you’ll know that the Knights Templar were violently suppressed in the early 14th century, so much so that the most important members ended up burned alive.
There are many legends about the Templars, but the real reason for the order’s abolition was far more pragmatic than you might imagine.
Meaning?
Officially, the motives were political and economic. The order had become so rich and powerful that it made an enemy of the king of France, Philip the Fair, who coveted its wealth; and the ambiguity of being both monks and fighters lent itself to accusation. In 1312 Pope Clement V officially dissolved the order.
In Portugal, however, things went differently.
King Dinis could not allow these warriors to be persecuted in his land too: the Templars had fought alongside the Portuguese sovereigns in driving out the Moors, helping Afonso Henriques (Afonso I) to found the Kingdom of Portugal. In practice, the crown was in their debt.
So what did Dinis do?
He simply saved them by changing their name. In 1319 he obtained from Pope John XXII the creation of a new order, the Order of Christ, which inherited the men, lands and wealth of the Portuguese Templars. The Convent of Christ became the headquarters of this “continuation” of the Templars under another name.
Here’s a curiosity!
The famous red cross on a white field that marked Portuguese ships and caravels was the very symbol of the Order of Christ. And it’s no coincidence: Henry the Navigator, the prince who launched the great Portuguese explorations, was grand master of the order. In a sense, the caravels that discovered the world set sail under the cross of the Templars’ heirs.
Did you know?
What else to do in Tomar
Among the things to do in Tomar, don’t forget to visit the small town centre too.
From the Convent of Christ you reach it by crossing a park or by following the main road. Along the way you’ll come across the graceful Renaissance chapel of the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
The centre of Tomar is peculiar especially from an urban-planning point of view. Like the little town of Troyes in France, which is shaped like a champagne cork, here too the buildings weren’t laid out at random.
Can you guess what shape it has?
What design is more fitting for a Templar town than that of the cross? The old layout is said to trace precisely that shape.
I recommend seeking out the main square, Praça da República, and starting your exploration from there, to discover the loveliest alleys and views. Another charming spot is the Parque do Mouchão, on the river, where you’ll also find a perfectly preserved water mill.
What to eat in Tomar
Every self-respecting journey must end with something to sink your teeth into, so don’t forget to taste the local specialities.
This region of Portugal is famous for three sweets you’ll find almost everywhere: the typical almond pastries, those made with pumpkin, and the famous Fatias de Tomar. The latter are truly special and tied to the convent itself: the particular pan for making them is sold almost exclusively here.
How to get to Tomar and practical information
Tomar was the last stop of my journey through Portugal, and perhaps one of the loveliest.
If you’re on a similar tour and want to know how to get to Tomar from Lisbon, the most practical way is to take the train from Santa Apolónia station: in Portugal public transport works well and the train to Tomar leaves roughly every hour.
There were clouds when I set off. Once I’d taken my seat, the sign destino Tomar appeared. I know, destino in Portuguese simply means “destination”, but it made quite an impression on me. I smiled and enjoyed the landscape sliding past the window.
A few useful details, always to be double-checked before you set off:
- Convent of Christ hours: generally open every day except Monday; from October to March 9:00 am-5:30 pm (last entry 5:00 pm), from April to September 9:00 am-6:30 pm (last entry 6:00 pm).
- Ticket: around €6 (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983).
- A little tip: if you’re afraid of getting lost, don’t feel at ease with Portuguese, or simply want to enjoy the trip worry-free, you can also book an organised tour from Lisbon. Many also include Almourol Castle, a fortress built in the middle of the river Tejo, reachable only by boat: the view from its battlements is unforgettable.
And you - would you like to follow the Templar crosses all the way to the Convent of Christ, or have you already had the good fortune to lose yourself among its stones?
