If the Middle Ages fascinate you and you’re planning a little tour of northern France, you absolutely can’t forget to visit Troyes.
Troyes will immerse you in an almost fairy-tale atmosphere thanks to its adorable half-timbered houses and picturesque alleys. Today it’s one of the most important towns of the Champagne region, but its history is age-old: it was inhabited since prehistory.
Its name comes from the ancient Celtic people who lived here, the Tricasses Gauls, but the town’s real peculiarity is in its old centre.
Did you know the old town of Troyes has exactly the shape of a champagne cork?
In short, Troyes is one of the towns to visit near Paris, a little treasure that keeps its medieval heart intact.
But what to see in Troyes?
I’ll tell you all below. If you love these typical French towns, also read my articles on Rouen and Amiens.
Off we go!
The history of Troyes: a corner of the Middle Ages
Visiting Troyes will take you back at least a thousand years. Known as Augustobona under the Romans, the town became an important commercial, religious and cultural centre in the Middle Ages, above all thanks to the textile trade.
It was the birthplace of Chrétien de Troyes, one of the greatest authors of the French Middle Ages and of the Arthurian cycle. If you’ve read my article on San Galgano, you’ll know this author was probably influenced by legends linked to Italy too.
Are you a fan of the Templars? Then you’ll be glad to know that the famous Council of Troyes (1129) was held here, where the rule of the Templar order was drafted. The order’s founder, Hugues de Payns, was born in the village of the same name a few kilometres away, where today there’s a small museum in his honour.
Want to discover which monuments to visit in Troyes?
Right away!
1 – The cathedral of Troyes
The cathedral of Troyes is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul (Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul). It’s 114 metres long and 45 wide, but the astonishing thing is its 1,500 m² of stained glass, including two rose windows 10 metres in diameter.
This cathedral is proof of the town’s importance in the Middle Ages: the majestic windows and the many sculptures bear witness to a fervent artistic movement tied to the master glaziers and sculptors of the School of Troyes.
Like other great cathedrals, it took over 400 years to complete: begun around 1200, work went on, in stages, until the 17th century. The façade (16th century) is so decorated it looks crocheted; on the left rises an imposing bell tower of 1545, sadly never finished.
But if the exterior left you looking up, wait until you step through the door: the interior, with five naves, turns into a real rainbow of colours on sunny days thanks to the windows.
Among the other churches, the Sainte-Madeleine (with its splendid rood screen, the openwork stone jubé) and the beautiful Gothic basilica of Saint-Urbain are worth seeing: of the latter I especially liked the portal tympanum with the Last Judgement, and the 16th-century statue of the Virgin by the School of Troyes.
2 – The beautiful half-timbered houses
Half-timbered houses are one of my passions. In France I’ve found beautiful ones in Rouen and Caen too, but Troyes will amaze you because it keeps so many of them.
It’s fairly rare to find them still standing: these wooden houses were often destroyed by wars and fires, and the two world wars were the final blow. Troyes still has so many because the locals have always rebuilt them in the medieval tradition.
Among the finest I recommend the tourelle de l’Orfèvre (16th century) and the little houses of the Ruelle des Chats (15th century): it’s called that because the houses are so close together that cats could jump from one roof to another without falling.
Don’t miss a walk along the banks of the Seine (which flows through the town), where the little houses and the cathedral are reflected in the water. I left my heart there.
3 – The museums to see in Troyes
Have you ever thought of finding works by Modigliani in a small French town?
Well, right in front of the cathedral is the modern art museum of Troyes, with works by artists such as Modigliani, Degas and Soutine (the rich Pierre and Denise Lévy collection). The building was once the bishop’s palace.
I’d also point out the Saint-Loup museum, which holds archaeological finds from prehistory to the Middle Ages, a natural sciences section and a picture gallery, inside an old abbey. And if you love medieval stained glass, don’t miss the Cité du Vitrail, a space entirely devoted to this art.
4 – Troyes is the kingdom of cheap shopping
If I’ve worn you out with all this talk of the Middle Ages and art, you’ll be glad to know that Troyes is considered the French outlet capital: just outside the town there are big centres selling the best brands at discounted prices.
An excellent excuse to get out of Paris.
5 – The gastronomic tradition of Troyes
No trip is truly complete without tasting a local speciality. The typical dish of Troyes is the andouillette, a sausage made from coarsely cut pork offal; then there are the galettes and various cheeses.
And don’t leave without tasting the local drinks: besides the excellent champagne, the area is famous for the Pays d’Othe cider and a sloe-stone liqueur, the Prunelle de Troyes.
How to get to Troyes
Getting to Troyes from Paris is easy: the town is about 160 km away and reachable by car in a couple of hours, or by train in about 1 hour 40 from Gare de l’Est (Paris-Troyes-Belfort-Mulhouse-Basel line).
And you, are you drawn more to the rainbow of the cathedral’s windows or to the fairy-tale atmosphere of its half-timbered houses?
