Have you just read my article on the 6 things to see in Rimini in 1 day and would you like to know more about the Malatesta Temple? Did its unfinished façade intrigue you, and would you like to learn more?
In this article I want to tell you exactly the history and the most important features of this beautiful cathedral. You’ll discover the reasons it is one of the most successful examples of Renaissance architecture, but also the theories of the humanist who designed it, Leon Battista Alberti, a convinced champion of the importance of mathematical harmony and proportion in buildings.
But the curiosities about this splendid building are many.
Not only does the Malatesta Temple of Rimini stand on an old church dedicated to Saint Francis: its history was anything but simple, because it was shaped by the politics and wars in which the city and its lords were involved.
Do you know why the façade is unfinished?
The cathedral of Rimini unfortunately shared the fate of its patron: excommunicated, defeated by his enemy Federico da Montefeltro and surrounded by hostile forces, Sigismondo Malatesta was forced to halt the works.
But enough with the preambles!
Do you want to know the story of the Malatesta Temple? Would you like to know what it holds inside and why it is so important?
If you feel like deepening your knowledge of this masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance, below you’ll find my very own guide with all the most important aspects to keep in mind during your visit.
Let’s go!
History of the Malatesta Temple
What we know today as the Malatesta Temple of Rimini is, in fact, the city’s cathedral (dedicated to Santa Colomba: it took on this title only in 1809, when the old cathedral was abandoned).
As I anticipated, the present church was not built on empty ground but, as often happens, took the place of earlier buildings. Here stood an ancient church dedicated to Santa Maria in Trivio, later replaced in the 13th century by a place of worship dedicated to Saint Francis.
What was this church like?
Originally the church of Saint Francis had a single nave with no side chapels. At the far end there were three chapels, one of which had probably been decorated by Giotto, who is also credited with the beautiful painted Crucifix now in the Malatesta Temple.
Why was the Malatesta Temple in Rimini built?
It’s 1447, and Sigismondo Malatesta’s idea was to create a small chapel inside the existing church to hold his remains: it would be dedicated to Saint Sigismund, protector of the Malatesta family.
How did we get from a “simple” chapel to a majestic temple?
The answer is very simple.
Thanks to a series of military victories, Sigismondo gained power and wealth, which allowed him to change the original plan and enlarge the church to hold the tombs of his descendants and to show his power to other rulers. A bit like what happened in Pisa with the building of the beautiful Piazza dei Miracoli.
The design of the new Malatesta Temple was entrusted, around 1450, to Leon Battista Alberti. The idea was to create an extremely harmonious building, with forms inspired by ancient architecture, merged with his research on proportion.
The architect kept the single nave, but enriched it with large side chapels, entered through wide round arches.
Unfortunately, just as military victories had brought glory and funds, a series of defeats meant that the Malatesta Temple was never completed.
So what remains of this masterpiece today?
Let me tell you right away.
The exterior of the Malatesta Temple
The façade of the cathedral of Rimini is marked by three great arches interspersed with columns, in the tradition of Roman triumphal arches: Leon Battista Alberti drew explicit inspiration from the Arch of Augustus, which stands just a few steps away in Rimini. A choice designed to exalt the power of the city’s lords, victorious in their recent military clashes. The classical inspiration is evident too in the sober portal and the Latin inscription above.
Having enough funds at his disposal, Alberti planned to clad the building in precious polychrome marbles, which still enrich the façade of this Renaissance “temple”. The marbles were even taken from the ruins of Sant’Apollinare in Classe, near Ravenna, and from Fano, and reused here after Sigismondo’s victories.
What can be found along the sides of the church?
Along the flanks of the nave, on the outside, opens a series of arches that lend dynamism to the building. Between the base and the arches runs a plinth decorated with plant motifs.
One very striking thing about the Malatesta Temple is the great difference in style between the Gothic interior and the Renaissance exterior. Take note, because it’s really interesting.
Perhaps, had the building been completed according to the plans of Alberti and Matteo de’ Pasti, the dissonance would have been less evident. Alberti wrote a treatise, De re aedificatoria, setting out his theories on architecture, harmony and the proportion of forms: the Malatesta Temple is its most tangible example.
Here’s a curiosity not everyone knows!
Even though Sigismondo could not complete the Malatesta Temple, we know the original design thanks to a medal struck in 1450 by Matteo de’ Pasti. Alberti’s aim was to enlarge the church until the single nave became a sort of “corridor” leading to a great circular structure crowned by a dome, on the model of the Pantheon in Rome. A dome that was never built.
Would you ever have guessed?
Inside the Malatesta Temple: the right side
It is inside that the cathedral of Rimini shows itself at its best.
The tomb of Sigismondo Malatesta is right after the entrance, on the right, topped by two medallions depicting him.
Continuing on this side of the Malatesta Temple you’ll come to the Chapel of Saint Sigismund, protector of the family and of warriors, with some Malatesta coats of arms.
Pay attention to the side walls of the chapel.
Here you’ll notice three angels, among the most beautiful sculptures by Agostino di Duccio, while in the relics cell there’s a beautiful fresco by Piero della Francesca (dated 1451) depicting Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta kneeling before Saint Sigismund.
What was this chapel for?
The Chapel of Saint Sigismund was originally to be the funerary chapel of the Malatesta family.
A little further on, in the Chapel of the Angels, you’ll find the tomb of Isotta, Malatesta’s lover and later wife: the monument rests on elephants, the family’s heraldic emblem. The chapel is actually dedicated to the archangel Michael and is decorated, along the pillars, with music-making angels.
What comes next?
The Chapel of the Planets is one of the most beautiful in the Malatesta Temple. Here you can admire the depictions of the zodiac signs and the planets: one of the most beautiful and complete zodiac cycles in the iconography of the time. As pagan as it may seem, it is actually an exaltation of God and creation, in perfect opposition to the chapel opposite, which portrays the liberal arts and the works of man.
When Pope Pius II excommunicated Sigismondo Malatesta (even “canonising him to hell” in 1462, the only such case in history), one of the charges was precisely that he had filled the church, as he wrote in his Commentaries, with
“so many pagan works that it seems not a temple of Christians but of infidels worshipping demons”
and all because of this chapel!
But there’s more!
It is right here that you’ll find the famous relief depicting the city of Rimini under the sign of Cancer (Sigismondo’s sign). In the work you can easily recognise the beautiful Tiberius Bridge crossing the river Marecchia, the castle, the harbour and the city walls.
And where is Giotto’s Crucifix?
At the far end of the nave, in the apse behind the altar, you can’t miss it! It’s a large panel painted around 1301-1302, attributed to Giotto: an attribution widely accepted today, but long debated among scholars.
Inside the Malatesta Temple: the left side
What is found on the left side of the Temple?
Starting from the far end, you can see the Chapel of the Liberal Arts, with the depictions of Grammar, Philosophy and Rhetoric, also by Agostino di Duccio. As I said, this chapel is in perfect antithesis with that of the Planets and represents the work of man.
Heading back towards the exit you’ll find the Chapel of the Children’s Games. Here are the burials of Sigismondo’s first two wives, and it’s truly surprising for a very particular reason.
Do you want to know what it is?
Inside there are no fewer than 61 little angels, portrayed in all kinds of situations: running, playing piggyback or splashing water at one another. A delightful allegory of the innocence of childhood, again the work of Agostino di Duccio.
Finally, in the Chapel of the Madonna dell’Acqua stands the ancestors’ arch, where Sigismondo chose to keep the remains of his predecessors and other members of the Malatesta family.
The arch rests on a pair of elephants, but pay attention above all to the symbols all around, from the two stacked dice with Sigismondo’s profile to the twelve niches with statues of prophets and sibyls.
I found it very beautiful.
Malatesta Temple: opening hours and practical info
Finding the cathedral of Rimini won’t be difficult at all: the temple is right in the city centre, very close to the Roman forum.
Entry is completely free, but visiting isn’t possible during religious services and in the hour before Mass. Indicative opening hours are in the morning (about 8:30-12:00) and in the afternoon (about 15:30-18:00), with reduced slots on holidays: always check the up-to-date hours on the cathedral’s website before you go.
Inside the Temple there are special devices, like small booths, from which you can listen to the history of its construction and a description of the side chapels.
What to see near the Malatesta Temple
Rimini isn’t very large, so if you’re already in the centre you can see the most important sights on foot.
I’ve listed the 6 things to see in Rimini in a day, but let me also recommend the Museum of the “Cathedral Treasury”, where you’ll find sacred objects, liturgical instruments and even beautiful illuminated manuscripts (my favourites). And if you’d like a guide to tell you about the temple along with the Arch of Augustus and the Tiberius Bridge, you can book a walking tour of Rimini’s old town.
And you, have you ever been to the Malatesta Temple? Did the Alberti façade strike you more, or the contrast with the Gothic interior?
