Would you like to plan your holidays in Greece and are you wondering what to see in Rhodes?
Visiting Rhodes was one of the most beautiful holidays of my life and, even though several years have passed, I still have a wonderful memory of it.
The island of Rhodes is one of the most beloved destinations in Greece. That’s exactly why I’d advise against visiting it in the busiest periods: in August the island fills with thousands of tourists and it becomes hard to move around and enjoy the sea.
I went in September and didn’t find much of a crowd. Temperatures, even towards the end of summer, are still quite high, and Rhodes is famous for having very few rainy days: it’s said to be blessed by the sun for 300 days a year.
Visiting Rhodes will be a wonderful experience for you too, because this island has crystal-clear water, monuments from classical antiquity and the Middle Ages, a valley full of butterflies and indescribable sunsets. And to think that right here, at the harbour entrance, once stood the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
But I don’t want to give too much away!
In this post I’ll tell you about my experience and explain what to see in Rhodes during your summer holidays.
Let’s go!
1 – The Valley of the Butterflies, Petaloudes
Among the things to do in Rhodes in summer you absolutely must include a walk to Petaloudes, the Valley of the Butterflies. I recommend it because it’s famous all over Greece for the incredible abundance of these insects.
Okay, but where is Petaloudes?
The valley lies along the Pelecanos river, on the western side of the island, about 27 kilometres from Rhodes Town. Here grows a lush forest where every year the insects come to reproduce, drawn by the resinous scent of the oriental sweetgum trees (Liquidambar orientalis). The best time to see them is between July and September.
Here’s a curious fact: what everyone calls “butterflies” are actually moths, of the species Euplagia quadripunctaria, in the rhodosensis subspecies that lives only here. When they rest with closed wings on the trunks they are brown and perfectly camouflaged, but the moment they take flight they flash a surprising bright red.
As you stroll among little bridges and paths, you’ll see thousands of them fluttering in their habitat and resting on the rocks. Climbing to the top, you’ll also enjoy a lovely view over the valley and the sea.
I was absolutely fascinated by this place. I’d never expected to see so many insects all together: in some spots there are so many that you risk mistaking them for tree bark.
How much does it cost to enter the Valley of the Butterflies?
The ticket costs just a few euros (around €5, free for children) and the walk inside the park is one of the most beautiful on the whole island: streams, wooden bridges, and it takes about two hours to cross it all.
I loved it. That said, if you’ve decided to spend your holidays in Greece, you’ll surely be interested in its beaches too.
Here are the ones I liked most!
2 – The most beautiful beaches in Rhodes
As you’ll have gathered, I chose to rent a car because I didn’t want to spend a week stuck in the same place. If you plan to do as I did, I recommend trying a new beach every day.
The beaches of Rhodes are among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. There are so many different bays and inlets that you’ll admire a new landscape every single day.
How much do the beaches in Rhodes cost?
If you decide to follow my advice and travel in September, bear in mind that an umbrella and two sunbeds can be rented almost anywhere for a few euros a day. At first we thought of buying an umbrella, but given the tiny prices we preferred to travel light and enjoy the holiday. The umbrellas you’ll find are large and, in most cases, made of straw.
Okay, but which are the most beautiful beaches in Rhodes?
One of my favourites was Anthony Quinn Bay, a small rocky cove with crystal-clear water where beautiful fish swim. As a big fan of snorkelling, I fell in love with it!
The name, actually, is recent. The bay used to be called Vagies, but in 1961 some scenes of The Guns of Navarone were filmed here, and the actor Anthony Quinn fell so in love with it that he tried to buy the land to turn it into a club for actors. A very long legal battle ended up leaving the bay in public hands: that’s why you can swim here too. It’s small, though, so get there early in the morning or in the late afternoon, or you risk not finding a spot.
Also splendid is Lindos beach, set in a small bay overlooked by the beautiful acropolis. I promise it’s thrilling to swim or sunbathe beneath the remains of the Knights’ castle. Here the beach is sandy, the sea clear, and it’s larger and better equipped than Anthony Quinn: I found it ideal for family holidays.
I also loved Kallithea, Agios Pavlos (a natural pool!), Stegna and the enchanting Oasis.
A special mention goes to Prasonisi, at the southern tip of the island (about 90 km from Rhodes Town), where the Aegean Sea meets the Mediterranean. In summer a strip of sand, a tombolo, connects the little island to the mainland; in winter, when the sea rises, it becomes a true island again.
Looking for a place to windsurf in Rhodes?
Then Prasonisi is exactly what you’re after! On one side the Aegean waves for the more experienced, on the other the flat waters of the Mediterranean for beginners: a paradise for water sports, with steady, reliable winds. A place you absolutely have to see, but unsuitable for snorkelling or a relaxing swim.
At Faliraki and Kallithea too you’ll find very well-equipped beaches, but also very crowded ones. If you prefer quieter spots, I recommend Agathi, Gennadi or Glyfada.
3 – The medieval City of the Knights
Even on holiday I can’t resist visiting the cultural attractions of a place. I love snorkelling and long days on the beach, but I’d be bored to death doing only that for seven days straight.
So what is there to visit in Rhodes?
Among the things to do in Rhodes you can’t miss its most important town. The Old Town of Rhodes will welcome you with its imposing walls and its huge medieval palace. It’s a maze of ancient and modern lanes, where minarets (a legacy of the long Ottoman rule) mingle with the remains of Greek temples and the Knights’ bastions. It’s no coincidence that the medieval City of Rhodes has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988: it’s one of the best-preserved medieval fortified towns in Europe.
Where to start?
I recommend starting from its landmark, the Palace of the Grand Master. It’s one of the island’s most spectacular structures, though what you see today is largely a reconstruction. In 1856 a bolt of lightning struck the Church of Saint John, next to the palace, igniting the gunpowder the Knights had forgotten there since the siege of 1522: the explosion levelled the church and devastated the palace. It was the Italians who rebuilt it, between 1937 and 1940, during their occupation of the Dodecanese, as a stately residence.
But who were these Knights?
The palace belonged to the Knights of Saint John, the Hospitaller order that ruled the island from 1309 to 1522. They are the same knights who, after losing Rhodes to Suleiman the Magnificent, moved to Malta and became the Knights of Malta. Inside you can admire antique furnishings and mosaics, while the original parts blend different styles: the order was organised into “tongues” that gathered knights of seven different origins (Provence, Auvergne, France, Italy, Aragon, England and Germany), and each brought its own architectural taste.
From the palace runs the famous Street of the Knights (Odós Ippotón), one of the best-preserved medieval streets in the world, lined with the inns of the various “tongues”. Walking it is like stepping back in time: Gothic buildings merge with Romanesque elements in a unique style.
From here you can also take a stroll along the ancient city walls. I did it and I recommend it: it gives you a sense of the magnificence of this structure. Just one warning: bring a hat and don’t do it in the hottest hours, because there’s no shade along the walls and in summer the sun beats down hard.
4 – Among archaeological sites, castles and the acropolis of Lindos
Besides the palace in the Old Town, other fascinating places are the castles scattered across the island. The most beautiful, in my opinion, are those of Monolithos and Kritinia, both with breathtaking views over the sea.
But Rhodes also has much older archaeological areas. On the hill of Monte Smith, a few minutes from the city, stands the Acropolis of Rhodes: here you can see the partly reconstructed columns of the Temple of Apollo Pythios, the remains of the temples dedicated to Athena Polias and Zeus Polieus, a Hellenistic stadium and a small odeon. Admission is free and the view over the sea, at sunset, is magnificent. Don’t expect monumental ruins like those of Paestum, but the walk is well worth it.
Finally, don’t miss the beautiful acropolis of Lindos. After a swim in its bay, “climb” up to the rock: at the top you’ll find the remains of the temple of Athena Lindia and a view that will take your breath away. It’s one of the places I think about most often: enjoying the sunset from that height is priceless.
If you haven’t rented a car, the easiest way to get there is a day trip to Lindos from Rhodes Town, which takes you to the village and its acropolis without worrying about transport.
A curious fact: the Colossus of Rhodes
You can’t leave Rhodes without knowing the story of its most famous monument, even though it no longer exists.
The Colossus of Rhodes was a gigantic bronze statue of the sun god Helios, protector of the island. It was made by the sculptor Chares of Lindos around 280 BC to celebrate the Rhodians’ victory over the siege of Demetrius Poliorcetes. About 33 metres tall, it was the tallest statue in the ancient world, which is why it joined the list of the Seven Wonders.
Forget, though, the image of a giant straddling the harbour entrance, with ships sailing between its legs: that’s a late invention with no historical basis. Scholars believe it stood near the harbour of Mandraki or, perhaps, on the acropolis. It lasted barely sixty years: an earthquake toppled it in 226 BC, and its remains lay on the ground for centuries, still admired by travellers, until they were finally lost. Today, at the entrance of Mandraki harbour, where legend places it, you’re greeted by two columns bearing the deer Elafos and Elafina, symbols of the island.
5 – Where to eat in Rhodes
After swimming and “climbing” acropolises, I imagine you’ll have worked up quite an appetite and will want to discover what to eat in Rhodes.
On the island you’ll find all the specialities of Greek cuisine, with some Turkish influence and, given the strong presence of Italians, our cooking too. I’m sure you’ll find something to your taste.
What did I like most?
From Greek cuisine I recommend pita and souvlaki, the typical flatbread with skewers, perfect for a quick lunch. But it’s with fish that the local cuisine is at its best: excellent the fresh catch I tasted in Lindos. Then there are the classic sauces, tzatziki and taramosalata, and of course one of the most succulent dishes, moussaka.
Want to know my favourite spot?
The first, where I went back more than once, is the Auvergne Café, in the Old Town. I discovered it by chance, in a quiet corner in the shade of a great centuries-old tree: I felt I’d travelled back in time, and the club sandwiches are exceptional. The other, the setting of one of the most romantic dinners of my life, was by the sea at Maria Mouria, where they serve traditional Greek dishes cooked simply and tastefully. Worth a try.
Where to stay and how to get around in Rhodes
If you too love exploring the places you go on holiday, you’ll be wondering what the ideal way to get around Rhodes is.
Since I don’t like staying put in one place, I chose to rent a car at the airport and always got around with it. Without a car I don’t know how I could have seen everything I saw: it gave me a flexibility I wouldn’t have had with buses. So I recommend a car or a scooter for exploring the island.
As for where to sleep, I took an apartment near (but not too near) Faliraki, the centre of the island’s nightlife, full of bars and restaurants. I stayed at the Summer Days residences, handy for quickly reaching Rhodes and Lindos, just 20-30 minutes away by car.
I’d advise against sleeping right in the centre of Faliraki, though, unless you plan on staying up late: after midnight the main street turns into a huge open-air disco and sleeping becomes impossible.
When to go?
My advice is to avoid the peak of August and aim for June or September: warm sea, long days, fewer crowds and more reasonable prices. Rhodes is an island that knows how to combine the relaxation of its beaches with the wonder of its history, from the Greek temples to the Colossus, from the Knights to the Ottomans. Once you’ve seen it, it’s hard not to want to come back.
And you, what would you put at the top of your list of things to see in Rhodes?
