Visiting the basilica of Superga in Turin: Juvarra’s dome, the Royal Tombs, the climb to the dome, the rack tram, with hours and prices checked on site.
Guarino Guarini’s Chapel of the Holy Shroud in Turin: the dome of stacked arches, the 1997 fire, the restoration, and why the cloth itself is not on display.
What to see at the Musei Reali in Turin: Juvarra’s Scala delle Forbici, the Royal Armoury, the Van Eyck in the Sabauda, and why Leonardo is not on show.
The Mole Antonelliana and the National Museum of Cinema in Turin: the building site that ran away, the Aula del Tempio, the panoramic lift, hours and prices.
The works to see at the Museo Egizio in Turin: the intact tomb of Kha and Merit, the Turin King List, the temple of Ellesiya and the rebuilt Gallery of Kings.
What to see in Turin in 2 days: the Museo Egizio, the Musei Reali, Guarini’s Chapel of the Shroud, the Mole and Superga, with hours, prices and closing days.
The portico of San Luca in Bologna: the arches traditionally called 666, the 3,600 metres and 489 steps to the sanctuary, with hours and the climbable dome.
The Lamentation over the Dead Christ by Niccolò dell’Arca in Santa Maria della Vita in Bologna: the seven figures, the running Magdalene, hours and prices.
What to see in the Santo Stefano complex in Bologna: the Holy Sepulchre, the courtyard of Pilate, the Trinity and the cloister, with hours and closing day.
What to see at the Pinacoteca Nazionale of Bologna: Raphael’s Saint Cecilia, Giotto’s polyptych, the Carracci, Guido Reni and Lavinia Fontana.
What to see in the basilica of San Petronio in Bologna: the unfinished facade, Cassini’s meridian, the Bolognini chapel and Giovanni da Modena’s Hell.
What to see in Venice in 2 days: St Mark’s, the Doge’s Palace, the Accademia and the Frari, with bookings, vaporetto fares and the access contribution.
How to visit the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua: compulsory booking, 15-minute slots, prices, and how to read Giotto’s cycle of frescoes wall by wall.
What to see in Bologna in 2 days: San Petronio, the Pinacoteca, the Seven Churches and the portico of San Luca, with hours, prices and the towers closed.
What to see in the Frari basilica in Venice: Titian’s Assunta and Pesaro Altarpiece, the friars’ choir, the Canova monument and the Donatello, with hours.
What to see in Naples cathedral: the chapel of the treasure of San Gennaro, the early Christian baptistery and the basilica of Santa Restituta, with hours.
The works to see at the Gallerie dell’Accademia in Venice: Giorgione’s Tempest, Veronese’s Feast, Bellini, Tintoretto and Carpaccio, with opening hours.
What to see at the Capodimonte museum in Naples: Caravaggio’s Flagellation, Bellini’s Transfiguration, the Farnese collection and the park, with hours.
What to see in the Sansevero Chapel in Naples: Sammartino’s Veiled Christ, the Disillusion, the Modesty and the labyrinth floor, with hours and prices.
What to see at the Doge’s Palace in Venice: Tintoretto’s Paradise, Veronese’s ceilings, the Bridge of Sighs and the prisons, with 2026 hours and prices.
What to see in St Mark’s Basilica in Venice: the golden mosaics, the Pala d’Oro, the bronze horses, and how the compulsory timed slot works.
What to see in Naples in 2 days: the old centre, the Sansevero Chapel, the cathedral and Capodimonte, with opening hours, prices and the right order.
All of Borromini’s works in Rome: San Carlino, Sant’Ivo, Palazzo Spada, the churches and the closed buildings, with the walking route and what you can visit.
Propaganda Fide, the Oratorio dei Filippini, Palazzo Falconieri and Palazzo Pamphilj: Borromini’s works closed to the public, and how to see them anyway.
The Roman churches by Borromini you can visit for free: Sant’Agnese in Agone, St John Lateran, Sant’Andrea delle Fratte and his tomb at the Fiorentini.
Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza in Rome, Borromini’s masterpiece with the spiral lantern: the star-shaped plan, the restoration, and how to see it while it is closed.
Borromini’s forced perspective at Palazzo Spada: how the optical trick works, how long the colonnade really is, how tall the statue is, hours and tickets.
San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, Borromini’s first and last building site: the rippling facade, the oval dome, the cloister and the crypt, with opening hours.
The Minerva elephant, the angels of Ponte Sant’Angelo, three palaces and the Bust of the Saviour: Bernini’s works outside the churches and the museums.
Bernini’s five works in Rome’s churches, all free to enter: Saint Teresa, Blessed Ludovica, the Raimondi Chapel, Sant’Andrea and Santa Bibiana.
Baldachin, Cathedra, colonnade, two papal tombs, the St Longinus and the Scala Regia: what to look for in St Peter’s and in what order, with checked dates.
Beyond the four famous sculptures, the Galleria Borghese holds a goat, two popes, a terracotta horse and three paintings by Bernini. Where to find them.
A crack ran across the cardinal’s forehead and Bernini carved a second bust in days. They now stand in the same room: here is how to tell them apart.
Bernini carved it the year his St Peter’s bell tower was pulled down, and never sold it. The story, the Time that was never carved and how to see it.
The two early Caravaggios at the Galleria Borghese arrived through a 1607 seizure. The story, the self-portrait, the withered leaves and practical details.
At the Galleria Borghese Caravaggio painted himself as the severed head of Goliath. The story, the sword inscription and the plea to Scipione Borghese.
