Are you travelling in Slovenia and wondering what to see in Ljubljana? I had the chance to visit this beautiful city towards the end of summer, after discovering the lovely Trieste, and I was pleasantly amazed.
I bet it will be the same for you!
The capital of Slovenia is sadly little known, but it is a small treasure of art and history, an enchantment of canals, little houses and colours.
But what is there to see in Ljubljana?
You will notice that the old Ljubljana Castle dominates from above, a still very visible witness to the history of Ljubljana and of the whole of Slovenia.
Down below lies the historic centre, not huge but very well kept, and it was a real pleasure to stroll through it.
But there are plenty of other things to see in Ljubljana!
For instance, do you know why four enormous dragons perch on one of the bridges? Or what you can admire in the Narodna galerija? Did you know that in the Museum of Illusions you will find yourself in an upside-down room?
Below you will find my selection of the 5 things to see in Ljubljana, I tell you about my experience and give you some advice on what to see, do and eat in the splendid capital of Slovenia. First, though, let’s start where the whole city starts: the castle hill.
Let’s go!
What to do in Ljubljana to discover the history of Slovenia
If the Middle Ages fascinate you as much as they do me, I’m more than sure that the first thing you will want to see in Ljubljana will be its beautiful castle.
Ljubljana Castle, or Ljubljanski grad, stands on the oldest settlement in the city and, from the top of its ramparts, dominates the whole valley below.
This hill has been inhabited for more than three thousand years: first prehistoric settlements, then Illyrian and Celtic fortifications, while in the plain below the Romans founded the town of Emona. The castle itself appears in documents in the second half of the twelfth century and was then enlarged repeatedly over the following centuries.
But why is the castle so important?
A defensive structure and a stronghold, this castle profoundly marked the history of the city. In the fifteenth century solid towers were built to withstand attacks from increasingly advanced weapons such as cannon. Then, in the Napoleonic era, it became barracks and a military hospital, and from 1815 it was turned into a prison, a function it kept almost without interruption until 1895 and which sadly returned during the Second World War.
Visiting Ljubljana Castle also means discovering these changes, which came to an end with the great restoration project launched between the 1960s and 1970s, when the last inhabitants were moved elsewhere.
Would you like to know how to get up to Ljubljana Castle?
It is very easy, because you have a wonderfully handy funicular, in service since the end of 2006, which takes you up in a minute. There are combined tickets covering both the ride up and entry to the castle, and that is the formula I recommend.
The route inside unfolds chronologically among archaeological finds and video installations. I suggest going all the way up the viewing tower: the view over the city is magnificent!
But it certainly doesn’t end there!
Here are the 5 things to see in Ljubljana that I liked enormously.
1 – Taking a photo on the Dragon Bridge in Ljubljana
Among the things to see in Ljubljana, don’t stop at the castle. There are plenty of attractions that will surprise you in this small Slovenian capital.
For example?
The most famous, and perhaps slightly overrated, is the Dragon Bridge of Ljubljana, which is… tiny!
From the photos you find online it will look much bigger, but in fact it is a short bridge, guarded at its corners by four dragons in copper, joined by sixteen smaller dragons scattered across the structure, watching over the passage of people and cars on the river Ljubljanica.
The dragon is in fact the symbol of the city of Ljubljana, because legend has it that the city was founded by Jason.
Do you remember the story of Jason and the Argonauts?
Let me refresh it a little.
After stealing the Golden Fleece together with the brave Argonauts, Jason is said to have taken to the sea and landed on the Slovenian coast. While trying to return to Greece, he then supposedly came up against a terrible monster: a mighty dragon that reigned over this marshy land.
According to tradition, once Jason had defeated the dragon, the city of Ljubljana rose in place of the marsh, and the dragon stayed forever on its coat of arms. There is also a small local superstition attached to the dragons on the bridge: they are said to wag their tails whenever a virgin walks across.
But if it’s so small, isn’t it worth visiting?
On the contrary!
The Dragon Bridge of Ljubljana, despite its modest size, is a masterpiece of the Vienna Secession (the artistic movement Klimt also belonged to). It was designed by Jurij Zaninović, a pupil of Otto Wagner, and built between 1900 and 1901: it was one of the first reinforced concrete bridges in Europe and, when it was inaugurated, it had the third widest arch span on the continent. In short, it was cutting edge both technically and artistically.
Consider that it is now 125 years old.
2 – Visiting the National Gallery of Slovenia
National galleries usually leave me slightly disappointed. Inside I have almost always found works of little importance, secondary to those of other museums. The National Gallery of Ljubljana, by contrast, struck me in a positive way.
There are no world-famous masterpieces, but splendid works ranging from the Middle Ages to the early twentieth century.
Would you like to know which were my favourite works?
Certainly the late medieval “Dance of Death”, in which you see the skeletons of people of every social class filing past in exactly the same way, to represent the fact that death makes everyone equal. A useful clarification: what you see in the gallery is a reproduction of a fresco from around 1490 by Janez of Kastav, which is still today in the Church of the Holy Trinity at Hrastovlje, a little village in south-western Slovenia. If the theme appeals to you, the original is worth the detour.
This work immediately reminded me of the installation in the Tarot Garden concerning “judgement”. There too the message was very similar.
But the National Gallery of Ljubljana also gave me the chance to discover Slovenian artists I didn’t know at all, such as Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926), the most important Slovenian woman painter and a genuine symbol of the country’s cultural identity, or the landscape painter Anton Karinger.
If you don’t know them, look them up: their works are very beautiful.
3 – Losing your bearings in Ljubljana’s Museum of Illusions
Among the things to do in Ljubljana, many guidebooks recommended the Museum of Illusions… how could we not go?
Before going in my expectations were very low, but the museum’s installations surprised me beyond my rosiest hopes.
Why?
The optical illusions will make you lose your sense of direction and of reality, dragging you like Alice in Wonderland into an absurd and marvellous world!
I recommend it above all if you are taking a trip to Ljubljana with children, because it is very well suited to little ones but fun for grown-ups too.
My favourite was the upside-down room. Simple and striking!
4 – Lighting a candle in the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius
After visiting the National Gallery of Slovenian Art, you cannot fail to notice a church standing right opposite the museum. This is the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius of Ljubljana, a Serbian Orthodox church built between 1932 and 1936 to a design by the architect Momir Korunović, in neo-Byzantine style.
I already know what you’re thinking!
Why should a church from the 1930s be so important?
Well, from the outside the structure of the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius will look very sober to you, despite its five domes (a central one and four smaller ones, all with gilded crosses, following the model of medieval Serbian churches). But the real surprise is inside.
The walls of this church are in fact entirely covered in brightly coloured frescoes. Consider that they took more than ten years to complete, from 1986 to 1997, and are the work of the Serbian painters Dragomir Jašović, Miša Mladenović and Danica Mladenović.
Its charm lies precisely in the decoration: the atmosphere is one of deep quiet, but the paintings are so varied and astonishing that they will leave you looking up for a good half hour.
I have to admit it is the first time a modern church has struck me like this.
5 – Tasting delicious dishes at the Atelje restaurant
After all this walking, it is time to tell you where to eat in Ljubljana.
One of the best restaurants I have ever been to in my whole life is right in the centre, in the Grand Hotel Union block: it is called Atelje.
After studying the menu for a while, we decided to treat ourselves to the tasting menu and we did very well indeed. It was a riot of flavours!
Chef Jorg Zupan alternates typical Slovenian dishes with international cooking and the result pleasantly surprised me. I’m not exaggerating when I say it was one of the best culinary experiences of my life, and apparently I’m not the only one who thinks so: the restaurant has earned a Michelin star.
Two practical notes: it is closed on Sundays and, being a starred restaurant, it is worth booking well in advance. Ljubljana’s food scene moves quite a bit, so always check before you travel.
Practical tips for visiting Ljubljana
If you are thinking of visiting Ljubljana I definitely recommend a walk in the centre.
The historic centre of Ljubljana is small but very well kept, so you won’t struggle to reach the main attractions on foot. Bear in mind that the heart of the city is almost entirely pedestrian: if you arrive by car, leave it in one of the car parks just outside.
Have I convinced you to visit a museum or two as well?
In that case, if you want to save a little, it is worth buying the Ljubljana Card, which will get you free entry and discounts at all the main places of interest, including the castle funicular and public transport.
If instead you have an extra day and want to see the rest of the country, wonderfully convenient excursions leave from Ljubljana: the loveliest is the one to Lake Bled, with its little island and the castle perched over the water.
And you, what intrigues you most about Ljubljana: the castle on the hill or the dragons on the bridge?
