The Battle of San Romano: the three panels split between Florence, London and Paris
The Battle of San Romano by Paolo Uccello: which of the three panels is at the Uffizi, where the other two are, and how to read the lances in perspective.
The Battle of San Romano by Paolo Uccello: which of the three panels is at the Uffizi, where the other two are, and how to read the lances in perspective.
The Madre in Naples, a contemporary art museum in Palazzo Donnaregina: the site specific rooms, the collection and the exhibitions, with hours and prices.
The Venus of Urbino at the Uffizi: not a goddess but a bride, the objects that prove it, the Medici dowry, the loans, current hours and tickets.
Leonardo’s Annunciation and Verrocchio’s Baptism of Christ hang in the same Uffizi room: how to read them, who painted what, hours and tickets.
The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula at Gallerie d’Italia in Naples: the last Caravaggio, the 1980 letter that reattributed it, the new room, hours and tickets.
The Doni Tondo at the Uffizi: which room it’s really in, why it’s Michelangelo’s only finished painting, and how to read the spiral and the frame.
The Museo di San Marco in Florence: Fra Angelico’s Annunciation, the friars’ frescoed cells and Savonarola’s rooms, with hours and tickets.
Caravaggio’s Seven Works of Mercy at the Pio Monte della Misericordia in Naples: how to read the painting, hours, tickets and the short Sunday window.
The Certosa di San Martino in Naples: the Cuciniello nativity scene, the Tavola Strozzi, the cloisters and the view over the bay, with hours and tickets.
The MAXXI L’Aquila at Palazzo Ardinghelli: the baroque palace restored after 2009, the Thursday to Sunday hours, tickets and the 2026 exhibitions.
The Spanish fort in L’Aquila and the MuNDA reopened in the castle in 2025: the mammoth, the Beffi Triptych, Antonello’s Ecce Homo, hours and tickets.
The megalithic area of Saint-Martin-de-Corléans in Aosta: the anthropomorphic stelae, the ritual ploughed field and the dolmen tombs, with times and tickets.
The National Art Gallery of Cagliari and its retablos: the Master of Castelsardo, Saint Eligius and the Cavaro workshop of Stampace, with hours and tickets.
The National Archaeological Museum of Cagliari: the Nuragic bronzes, the Nora stone, the Giants now at Cabras, opening hours and the closed floor.
The Cycle of the Months in Torre Aquila, Trento: the snowball fight, the grape harvest, the lost month and how the timed visit actually works.
The Civic Art Gallery of Reggio Calabria: the two panels by Antonello da Messina, the seventeenth century of Mattia Preti and Luca Giordano, hours and visiting.
The National Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria level by level: the sanctuaries of Locri, the pinakes, the bronzes from the sea and the works out on loan.
The Riace Bronzes in Reggio Calabria: the 1972 discovery, how to look at the two statues, forty years of restoration and how entry to the room works.
Piero della Francesca’s Flagellation and the Ideal City: the identity of the three men, the contested attribution and the twin panels in Baltimore and Berlin.
A guide to the Ducal Palace of Urbino and the National Gallery of the Marche: history, rooms to see, hours and tickets checked in September 2026.
The works to see at the National Gallery of Umbria in Perugia: Fra Angelico, Gentile da Fabriano, Arnolfo di Cambio, Piero della Francesca and Perugino.
The Revoltella Museum in Trieste: the marble group of the Suez canal, De Nittis’ Lady with a Dog, Veruda and the sixth floor by Carlo Scarpa.
Palazzo Abatellis in Palermo: the Triumph of Death painted for a hospital, Antonello da Messina’s Virgin Annunciate and Carlo Scarpa’s 1954 installation.
The works to see in the Strada Nuova Museums in Genoa: Caravaggio’s Ecce Homo, the Van Dyck portraits of the Brignole Sale and Paganini’s violin.
The works of the Pinacoteca Giaquinto in Bari: Bellini’s San Pietro Martire with the drawings on its back, the Vivarini, Tintoretto, Guercino and Giaquinto.
The Exultet scrolls of Bari: eleventh-century parchments with the images painted upside down, the praise of the bees and two Byzantine emperors who date them.
What to see at the Musei Reali in Turin: Juvarra’s Scala delle Forbici, the Royal Armoury, the Van Eyck in the Sabauda, and why Leonardo is not on show.
The works to see at the Museo Egizio in Turin: the intact tomb of Kha and Merit, the Turin King List, the temple of Ellesiya and the rebuilt Gallery of Kings.
What to see at the Pinacoteca Nazionale of Bologna: Raphael’s Saint Cecilia, Giotto’s polyptych, the Carracci, Guido Reni and Lavinia Fontana.
The works to see at the Gallerie dell’Accademia in Venice: Giorgione’s Tempest, Veronese’s Feast, Bellini, Tintoretto and Carpaccio, with opening hours.
What to see at the Capodimonte museum in Naples: Caravaggio’s Flagellation, Bellini’s Transfiguration, the Farnese collection and the park, with hours.
Borromini’s forced perspective at Palazzo Spada: how the optical trick works, how long the colonnade really is, how tall the statue is, hours and tickets.
Beyond the four famous sculptures, the Galleria Borghese holds a goat, two popes, a terracotta horse and three paintings by Bernini. Where to find them.
A crack ran across the cardinal’s forehead and Bernini carved a second bust in days. They now stand in the same room: here is how to tell them apart.
Bernini carved it the year his St Peter’s bell tower was pulled down, and never sold it. The story, the Time that was never carved and how to see it.
The two early Caravaggios at the Galleria Borghese arrived through a 1607 seizure. The story, the self-portrait, the withered leaves and practical details.