“Mi infancia son recuerdos de un patio de Sevilla, / y un huerto claro donde madura el limonero”: my childhood is memories of a courtyard in Seville, and of a bright orchard where the lemon tree ripens. That courtyard in Antonio Machado’s poem is thought to be the one at the Palacio de las Dueñas, where the poet was born in 1875.
The palace is the Seville home of the dukes of Alba, open to visitors since 2016. Inside there is a sixteenth-century courtyard, four gardens and a collection of more than fourteen hundred pieces. On Monday afternoons entry is free, but only if you book on the website: once the places are gone, you will not be let in at the door.
Why was a poet born in the palace of the dukes of Alba?
From the Pineda houses to the dukes of Alba
Why is the palace called “of the Dueñas”?
After a neighbour that is no longer there: the convent of Santa María de las Dueñas, founded in 1251 and demolished in 1868.
The palace grew out of a group of houses belonging to the Pineda family. A seventeenth-century historian told how the Pinedas had sold them in 1483 to pay the ransom of a relative taken prisoner by the Moors in the war of Granada: it is a legend. The sale, to Catalina de Ribera, dates from 1496, and it was she who turned the houses into a Gothic and Mudéjar residence. In 1516 Alonso de León was commissioned to paint the frescoes in the galleries of the courtyard.

On 9 February 1612 the heiress of the palace, Antonia Enríquez de Ribera, married the fourth Duke of Alba, and the house has belonged to the family ever since. The gateway you walk through, with the duke’s coat of arms, was built by the twelfth duke in 1771.
A palace divided into flats
In the nineteenth century the fifteenth Duke of Alba, who lived mostly abroad, divided the palace into flats and let it to a dozen families. One of them was the Machado family: that is why the poet was born in a ducal palace.
Restoration began around 1885 and continued throughout the twentieth century, under the seventeenth duke and then under Cayetana Fitz-James Stuart, the eighteenth duchess. For her this was the favourite of her houses: here she held the wedding lunch of 1947, here she remarried in 2011, and here she died in 2014. Two years later the nineteenth duke, Carlos Fitz-James Stuart, opened the palace to the public.
The main courtyard
It is the heart of the visit, and it has the shape of the Andalusian patio: a courtyard with galleries on two floors, palms and a fountain in the middle.

Look at the fountain: its tiles are by the Pulido brothers, from 1530-1540. The white marble columns came from a workshop in Genoa around 1540, and sixteenth-century tiles by the Pulidos also line the ceilings of the lower galleries. More early sixteenth-century tiles decorate the dados of the chapel.

The rooms and the collection
What hangs on the walls of the dukes of Alba’s home?
Five centuries of family collecting, from Sofonisba Anguissola to Sorolla. In the Salón de la Gitana, the ballroom, stands Mariano Benlliure’s bronze Gitana flamenca, next to seventeenth-century Flemish tapestries. In the piano room hangs the portrait of the seventeenth duke painted by Joaquín Sorolla in 1908.

And in the Salón Imperio, among the portraits of duchesses, there is a watercolour Jackie Kennedy painted during her visit in 1966, with a dedication to Cayetana: “Las Dueñas. Sala de estar de Eugenia que me encanta”.
The gardens and the Patio del Aceite
The palace covers 9,000 square metres, and there are four gardens. One is the Lemon Tree Garden, named after the tree in the poem.

The second courtyard is the Patio del Aceite, the Oil Courtyard, on the west side of the palace. It has a tiled fountain in the middle, remains of the fifteenth-century floor and, on its walls, frescoes like those in the main courtyard.

Practical information
Details checked on 29 October 2026 on the official website, lasduenas.es. Prices and opening hours change: check again before you leave.
For the Mudéjar style of more than a century earlier, there is the palace of Pedro I, in the Real Alcázar. And on the same day you can see the cathedral with the Giralda. In Madrid the same family opens its official residence, the Liria Palace, to visitors.
Photographs from Wikimedia Commons: the main courtyard, the arches of the courtyard and the Lemon Tree Garden, by Gzzz, CC BY-SA 4.0; the entrance gateway, by Alonso de Mendoza, CC BY-SA 4.0; the Salón de la Gitana and the Patio del Aceite, by Jl FilpoC, CC BY-SA 4.0.