Otranto is the easternmost point of our peninsula and, though it’s a small town of about 5,600 inhabitants, in summer its population multiplies thanks to tourism.
The sea at Otranto, and all around it, is truly spectacular: some of the most sought-after spots fall within the town’s territory.
If you’re thinking of spending your holidays in Salento, I can only recommend a dip at Porto Badisco, Fontanelle, Serra Alimini, Frassanito or Conca Specchiulla. I’ve been there, and the sea left me speechless!
But there’s more.
As soon as I arrived in Otranto I was struck by its colour: the town is as white as the sea foam that laps it. And it was the sea itself that was both the treasure and the ruin of this town. Thanks to maritime trade Otranto flourished for centuries, at least until the terrible destruction wrought by the Turks in 1480.
In short, if you want to visit Otranto, set aside at least half a day, because this Salento town is all about wandering.
Let me tell you what you absolutely can’t miss.
Let’s go!
History and castle of Otranto
Otranto is a coastal town with a history reaching back to Magna Graecia: it was first Greek, then Roman and, in the Middle Ages, an important centre of trade and culture between eastern and western Europe.
The first thing that strikes you visiting Otranto is that it’s a fortified town. The old centre is enclosed by defensive walls, among which stands the beautiful Aragonese castle, built by the Aragonese after they recaptured the city from the Turks at the end of the 15th century. This very building gave the name (and the gloomy atmosphere) to the first Gothic novel in history, The Castle of Otranto by Horace Walpole (1764): curiously, the English writer never set foot here, he took the name from a map.
The castle stands on earlier military fortifications and must have looked imposing even then. It has a pentagonal plan with three cylindrical towers and is ringed by a moat; over the entrance gate the great coat of arms of Charles V still stands out. Today the castle of Otranto hosts exhibitions and cultural events and can be visited.
The incredible cathedral of Otranto
The beautiful Romanesque cathedral of Otranto (Santa Maria Annunziata) was consecrated in 1088 and stands on older remains: beneath the floor you can make out traces of a Messapian-Roman settlement and an early Christian church, witnesses to the town’s very ancient history.
But its absolute masterpiece is the mosaic floor: an immense mosaic made between 1163 and 1165 by the monk Pantaleone, commissioned by Archbishop Gionata. Along its roughly 52 metres (it’s the largest floor mosaic in Europe) unfolds a gigantic Tree of Life, from which branch scenes of everyday life, prophets and biblical figures, animals, hunting scenes, legendary and historical figures, even King Arthur and Alexander the Great, all tied together by a deep theological message. The pews prevent you from admiring it in full, but its complexity remains stunning.
The cathedral also holds a tragic page of the town’s history: in the Chapel of the Martyrs rest the relics of the 800 inhabitants (813, to be precise) beheaded by the Turks of Gedik Ahmet Pasha on the Hill of Minerva, in 1480, for refusing to convert to Islam. The Martyrs of Otranto were canonised by Pope Francis in 2013.
The little church of St Peter
Another church not to be missed is the little Byzantine church of St Peter, in the heart of the old town.
I found it by pure chance, wandering through the alleys of Otranto: it stays almost hidden among the lanes, but it’s a little treasure worth discovering. It has a refined Byzantine architecture on a Greek-cross plan with a central dome, and inside it holds beautiful frescoes of the Byzantine school, including a Washing of the Feet and a Last Supper.
Its core probably dates to the late 9th–mid 10th century, when Otranto was a metropolis under Constantinople (from 968): it’s considered the oldest church in the town. According to local tradition it was dedicated to St Peter because the apostle is said to have passed through here on his journey from Palestine to Rome.
Otranto, a crossroads of cultures
The origins of Otranto are among the oldest in Italy.
Through its streets you’ll find buildings that look Greek, others that recall Spanish rule, still others with an Eastern air: like many coastal towns, Otranto has been all of this and keeps the traces. I had the same feeling wandering, lost, through the old town of Rhodes.
The emotion of the sea
The walls of Otranto and the seafront promenade are truly evocative. The crystal-clear water of the harbour turns pink and violet at sunset, while the white town begins to light up and its streets fill with curious visitors.
And if you want to experience Otranto from its natural element, the sea, I recommend a boat trip along the coast: from here depart the excursions to the sea caves and the loveliest bays of Salento, all the way to the famous Bay of the Turks. For me Otranto is the emotion of the sea, of history, and of humanity’s power to rebuild, always.
How to get to Otranto
If you want to visit Otranto and grab an ice cream in the old town or on one of its terraces over the sea, the handiest way to arrive is by car. One of the most beautiful roads is the coastal route linking Otranto to San Cataldo: the scenery is worth every kilometre. If you prefer public transport, you’ll take the train to Lecce and continue with the Ferrovie Sud Est.
And you, will it be the mosaic or the sea that wins you over first in Otranto?
